Here you’ll find listed, in order of occurence moving
downriver, all of the ferries, fords, landings, islands, and navigation hazards
on the Tennessee River when it was king, before the locks closed on the Hales
Bar, Chickamauga, and Nickajack Dams.
Sites designated as landings served steamboats, flatboats, keelboats,
and other craft moving passengers and cargo up and down river. Ferries had landings too, and occasionally
one would double as the other kind, but mostly were just used to transport passengers
and goods across river.
I’ve had an interest in river culture since I first saw,
then read, The Adventures of Huckleberry
Finn. I’m glad I had the chance to
take my son on both the Blythe’s Ferry and the Old Washington Ferry, before
they closed, as well as a lengthy ride on the Chattanooga Star. The
Tennessee River played more of a part of life in Hamilton County north and east
of Chattanooga, especially the eastern side, than the county south of it due to
the lack of railroad.
I’d originally intended to write separately about the
islands and river hazards (most of which are gone due to the dams) on the one
hand and about the former ferries and landings on the other, but realized both
would make more sense in context. I’ve
used left bank/right bank terminology rather than north bank/south bank because
it has the benefit of always being precise and staying the same whether you are
pointing descending the river at the first leg of Moccasin Bend or ascending it
on the other side.
It starts north in the vicinity of Jolly’s Island and
Blythe’s Ferry, which was actually in Meigs County, because much of the
northern extreme of the county relied on the ferry and Blythe’s Landing on the
left bank. I continued downriver all the
way to Hale’s Bar because it didn’t make much sense to stop at the Marion
County line which split a former hazard known as The Kettle, or The Suck, and
leave out the rest of the hazards of Cash Canyon, aka Tennessee River Gorge.
Locations of many are approximate due to their actual sites
being underwater. A couple I could only
guesstimate by their known geographic relation to other sites.
Zeigler Island is
and was just upriver from Jolly’s or Hiwassee Island
Jolly’s Island
sits at the confluence of the Tennessee and Hiwassee Rivers, named for John
Jolly, adopted father of Sam Houston and later Principal Chief of the Cherokee
Nation West, who was headman of the Cherokee town here. While people here knew it by this name for
well over a century, since the archaeological work in the New Deal era it is
more commonly known now as Hiwassee
Island.
Hiwassee Shoals are
north of Jolly’s Island on the opposite side of the mouth of Hiwassee
Slough.
Brown’s Ferry provided transportation from the
Rhea County side of the Tennessee River to the northwestern side of Jolly’s
Island.
Benham’s Landing was the Jolly’s Island anchor of
Brown’s Ferry and also provided landing space for river transport.
Cayuga Island was a tiny island, or towhead, just
south of Jolly’s Island in the main channel of Hiwassee River, so-called after
the Cherokee name for John Jolly’s town and for the ante-bellum community on
the mainland just south of it.
Lane’s Landing lay on the south side of Jolly’s
Island opposite the foot of Cayuga Island.
Blythe’s Ferry
ran just below Jolly’s Island. Founded
in 1809 by William Blythe and Nancy Fields, and operating until 1994 when it
was replaced by a bridge, Blythe’s Ferry was not only the earliest ferry in the
vicinity but the long-running.
Blythe’s Landing,
on the left bank of the river, was for decades the main trading post of the
quad-county area (Hamilton, Bradley, Meigs, Rhea).
Daughtery’s Ferry,
or Doughty’s Ferry, served those travelling between Birchwood in the
east and Sale Creek in the west. Its
memory survives in a Daughetry Ferry Road on either side of the river it
crossed for a century, 1830-1930.
Daughtery’s Ford
was just below the path of the ferry.
Daugherty’s Island
was halfway between Daughtery’s Ferry and Sale Creek.
Sale Creek Shoals
lie along the left side of the river across from Daugherty’s Island.
Roark’s Ford
crossed the river just above Sale Creek Island.
Roark’s Ferry plied the river at the same point, with its left bank dock being the one below.
Roark’s Landing,
named for John Roark, lay on the left bank of the river just below the ford.
Sale Creek Island
once rose above the water just below the mouth of the Sale Creek.
McCallies Hayshed
Landing, named for W. T. McCallie, was on the left bank of the river just
above McCallie’s Ferry.
McCallie’s Ferry crossed
the river in the vicinity of Hobo Bluff on the right bank and Johnson Slough on
the left bank. Earlier, it was known as Campbell’s Ferry.
Old Hickory Landing,
established by Joseph Roark, was on the left bank of the river, below
McCallie’s Ferry
Eldridge’s Landing,
named for John Eldridge, was on the left bank, northeast of the current mouth
of Eldridge Slough.
Thatcher’s Ford
was on the left bank roughly halfway between Eldridge Slough and the mouth of
Opossum Creek on the right bank.
Thatcher’s Ferry
crossed the river below the ford.
Thatcher’s Landing
sat on the left bank of the river just below the ford.
Upper Biggs’ Ford crossed
the river just above the mouth of Possum Creek on the right bank.
McGill’s Ferry,
established by William McGill and inherited by his children, crossed the river
near the mouth of Possum Creek.
Churcher’s Landing,
named for J.C. Churcher, was on the left bank of the river, possibly in this
vicinity. This location is iffy, given
that the only information I can find is that it was between Thatcher’s and Moon’s.
Biggs’ Towhead
was a little upstream from the mouth of Soddy Creek.
Lower Bigg’s Ford crossed
the river over the towhead.
Klipp’s Island,
also known as Soddy Island, was
midstream of the Tennessee River at the mouth of Soddy Creek on the right bank. Big Soddy Creek was once known as Squay Creek
and Little Soddy Creek as Spring Creek.
Soddy Ford crossed
the river over Klipp’s Island.
Soddy Shoals were
just below Klipp’s Island.
Soddy Landing lay
on the right bank below the mouth of Soddy Creek.
Moon’s Landing,
named for J. Harvey Moon, was on the left bank of the river, possibly in this
vicinity. This location is iffy, given
that the only information I can find is that it was between Churcher’s and Igou’s.
Penney’s Ford crossed
the river at roughly the same parallel as Poe’s Tavern in the west and Whiteoak
Mountain’s Taliferro Gap in the east.
Penney’s Ferry,
operated by Thomas Penny, crossed the river just below the ford.
Igou’s Ferry,
sometimes known as Blue Springs Ferry,
was just above Blue Springs Landing. It was first known as Teenor’s Ferry when it was established by Jacob Teenor. James T. Gardenhire bought it from Teenor,
and it became Gardenhire’s Ferry. Samuel T. Igou bought it from him. It operated 1830-1930.
Blue Springs Landing,
serving the Blue Springs community, was roughly west of Chigger Point and Blue
Springs Slough.
Dallas Ferry, just
north of Hamilton’s or Dallas Island was first established by Cherokee Moses
Fields, under whom it was known as Fields’
Ferry. Later it was own by Robert
Hunter, and sometimes call Hunter’s
Ferry. It operated 1830-1870.
Lovelady Landing
lay on the right bank of the river just below the landing for Dallas Ferry on
that side, serving the community of Dallas.
Upper Dallas Ford crossed
the river over the upper tip of the island.
Hamilton’s Island,
sometimes called Dallas or Harrison Island, was midstream in a leftward bend of
the river above the mouth of Ooltewah (Wolftever) Creek and below the community
of Dallas, seat of Hamilton County between Poe’s Tavern and Harrison.
Lower Dallas Ford crossed
the river over the lower tip of the island.
Harrison Ferry,
also known as Vann’s Ferry (though
Joseph Vann was long gone) and later as Brown’s
Ferry, operated just above Harrison 1840-1930.
Brown’s Shoal
was/is below the mouth of Ooltewah Creek and above Harrison.
Vann’s Landing
was the wharf for Vann’s Town during the Cherokee Nation days, then for
Vannsville and Harrison after the Removal.
Nelson’s Ferry
crossed the river southeasterly from the right bank to the vicinity of Harrison
Bluff on the left bank.
Chickamauga Shoals
lie close to the right bank of the river close to Lakeshore Marina.
Chickamauga Island
was opposite the mouth of North Chickamauga Creek, which was first known as
Laurel Creek, toward the left bank of the river. On maps, it was sometimes called Friar’s
Island.
Friar’s Towhead
was just below Chickamauga Island, closer to the left bank.
Friar’s Ford
crossed the river over the towhead.
Rogers’ Ferry
crossed the river above the mouth of South Chickamauga Creek.
Colwell Bar lies
near the right bank of the river just above the mouth of South Chickamauga
Creek, which was originally called Chickamauga River.
South Chickamauga Shoals lie near the left bank of the Tennessee River just past its confluence with Chickamauga River/South Chickamauga Creek.
Crutchfield Bar
also lies near the right bank of the river, a little below the mouth of South
Chickamauga Creek.
Amnicola Landing was opposite Crutchfield Bar on the left bank of the river and served primarily the large farm named Amnicola. In the late 1880s,
it was renamed Sherman’s Landing. It was on the
river across from the end of Judd Road, behind the site now known as the Old
Mill.
Beck’s Ferry,
established by Joshua Beck, son of David Beck who owned most of what is now
Riverview up to and including Dallas Heights, crossed from the point where the
Chattanooga Golf and County Club adjoins Heritage Landing (formerly known as
Beck Bottoms). Besides the usual river
crossing, the ferry provided service to Chattanooga Island and Ross’ Landing. The stones for the pillars holding up the County (Walnut Street) Bridge came from the Beck's quarry, hauled to the site by this ferry.
Citico Bar lies
in the river close to the left bank upstream from the mouth of Citico Creek.
Ross’ First Shoals
are the shallows just upriver from Chattanooga Island. During summer (or a lengthy drought), the
water was often merely knee-deep before Hales Bar Dam, then Nickajack Dam, and
thus a good fording place.
Gardenhire’s Landing,
named for William Gardenhire, was at or just below Ross’ First Shoals.
Gardenhire’s Ferry crossed
the river from the eponymous landing to the right bank.
Chattanooga Island,
also called Crutchfield Island, Maclellan Island, and Audobon Island, is first mentioned in
writing in accounts of the Tristan De Luna expedition for the year 1560. On Union army maps, it is refer to it as Ross
Island No. 2.
Chattanooga Shoals
lie between Chattanooga Island and the right bank of the river.
Atlanuwa is the Cherokee name for the cave in the
cliff below Battery Place, now submerged beneath the Tennessee River since the
closing of the gates on Nickajack Dam.
It is also the Cherokee name for the city.
Ross’ Landing (Upper)
was the trading post of John Ross, who later signed his interests over to younger
brother Lewis, and Timothy Meigs. It sat
on the left bank of the river, at the foot of the bluff, near where the Bluff
Furnace later stood. It was bought by
James C. White before the Cherokee Removal.
Swing Ferry was a
swing or flying ferry attached to the foot of Chattanooga Island by a metal
cable kept above water with buoys.
Originally called Gentry’s Ferry
after its founder, Billy Gentry, it is almost always mistakenly called Ross’
Ferry, even by me, due to its southern dock being Ross’ Landing. After the Removal, John Cowart ultimately
came into its possession, and it became known as Cowart’s Ferry. It ceased
operation when the Army of the Cumberland opened the Meigs Allee bridge in
1864. However, when that was washed away
in the 1867 flood, Cowart’s widow, Cynthia Pack Cowart (daughter of Betsy Pack,
beloved in Jasper, TN, and granddaughter of John Lowery) reopened it. It operated from well before the Removal
until the County (Walnut Street) Bridge opened in 1891.
Upper Ferry ran between
the end of Market Street on the south and Upper Ferry Road (now North Market
Street) in the north. Also known as Frazier’s Ferry, after its founder,
Samuel J. A. Frazier, who, along with Richard Colville, opened Hill City for
development in 1884. It operated from
1882 until the John Ross (Market Street) Bridge opened in 1917.
Lower Ferry was
one of the river-crossing points from the city to what at that point was the
northern bank. Its southern landing was
at the end of Pine Street, now Power Alley.
On the northern side, Stringer Street became Lower Ferry Road after
crossing what is now Manning Street down to the riverbank. Begun by Meredith Legg near the Removal who later
sold it to Abe Beason, for whom it was known respectively as Legg’s Ferry and Beason’s Ferry. It operated from
about 1837 until the John Ross (Market Street) Bridge opened in 1917.
Rolling Mill Shoals
lie midstream roughly opposite the end of Molly Lane, at what might be called
the beginning of Moccasin Bend.
Moccasin Bend is
the unique bend of the Tennessee River around the peninsula of land properly
called Moccasin Point.
Buffalo Ford at Ross’
Towhead was just above the the tiny Ross’ Towhead, its name bearing witness
to the presence of bison (probably wood bison) in the region.
Ross’ Towhead was
a tiny island across the river from the big toe of Moccasin Point. With the narrow gap between it and the
riverbank filled in, it became part of the ground supporting I-24 highway. Union army maps refer to it as Ross’ Island
No. 1.
Ross’ Second Shoals lie
in the river near its right bank, close to the tip of the big toe of Moccasin
Point.
Ross’ Landing (Lower)
served the tannery and plantation of Daniel Ross, in the vicinity of
northern St. Elmo.
Seminole
Ferry once ran between Seminole
Landing riverport just below the mouth of Lookout Creek and the end of a
trail on Moccasin Point that ran north to connect with the road to Dallas and
Old Washington as well as the Dry Valley Road north to Poe’s Cross
Roads-Chickamauga-Melville-Daisy, Soddy, Sale Creek, and Smith’s Crossroads (Dayton)
in Rhea County.
Lookout Shoals
lie near the left bank of the river downstream from the mouth of Lookout Creek,
opposite the pinky toe of Moccasin Point and below the
Seminole Ferry crossing.
Brown’s Landing
served the trade and shipping needs of the community and of Brown’s
Tavern, both originally owned by John Brown, Judge of the Chickamauga District. It was about a mile upriver from
the eponymous ferry, in proximity to the modern Brown’s Ferry Marina.
Brown’s Ferry operated
from the end of Brown’s Ferry Road in the west (now a private road from its
intersection with Burgess Road) across the river to the northern side of the
Moccasin Bend Wastewater Treatment Facility, originally by Thomas Brown.
Williams’ Island
divides the river just above the entrance into Cash Canyon. Its earliest known name was Tuskegee Island, so called for the
Cherokee town established by former residents of the same named town on the
Little Tennessee River. Later it was
known as Brown’s Island, after it
Cherokee owner after the wars, John Brown.
Chattanooga pioneer Samuel Williams became its owner after the Cherokee
Removal and it is now known by his name.
Williams’ Island
Ferry ran between the right bank of the Tennessee River and the east side
of Williams’ Island. Dating from the
Cherokee Nation days, it used to be known as Fields’ Ferry after the Cherokee
owner, David Field. Ephraim Hixson
bought it and the reservation that went with it, along with the nearby John
Brown reservation, and the ferry became known as Hixson’s Ferry until bought by
Samuel Williams.
Jackson Bar sits close
to the western side of Williams Island at its midpoint.
Burris Bar sits close
to the eastern side of Williams Island two-thirds of the way downstream.
Cash Canyon, as
the Tennessee River Gorge is more properly known in local tradition, was world
famous during colonial times for its nearly impassable hazards. Even Thomas Jefferson wrote about it, calling
it the Suck. Other early writers called
it the Narrows.
Tumbling Shoals
started about a half mile down from Williams’ Island, above the mouth of Shoal
Creek on the right bank of the river.
Holston Rock
protruded from the water below the mouth of Middle Creek on the right bank of
the river.
The Kettle, also
known as the Suck, was a huge, almost permanent whirlpool just above the mouth
of Suck Creek on the right bank of the river that disturbed the channel for
some distance below the confluence of the two streams.
Suck Shoals lay
in the channel toward the right bank just as the river started to turn south.
Dead Man’s Eddy
ran between the mouth of Dividing Hollow on the left bank to the point where
Stanley Independent Baptist Church is on the right.
The
Pot was a disturbance in the channel between Blowing
Springs Branch and Chestnut Bridge Hollow on the right bank of the river.
The
Skillet was a disturbance at the apex of the westerly starboard
bend just below Skillet Gap on Raccoon Mountain and just above Pot Point on Walden’s
Ridge.
The
Pan, according to Union military maps, was a disturbance below
Pan Gap and Scout Hollow halfway to Savannah Towhead, roughly across from the
mouth of Piney Branch.
Savannah
Towhead is at a southerly bend to port just below McNabb
Spring on the left bank across from the mouth of Alex McNabb Branch on the
right bank. It was a lot bigger before
the Hales Bar Dam and the later, much bigger Nickajack Dam.
Kelly’s Bar was
just upriver from the ferry.
Kelly’s Ferry,
established by John Kelly, crossed the river at the western end of Kelly’s
Ferry Road from Lookout Valley, now part of Robert E. Lee Highway, to a spot
near the Kelly’s Ferry Community Church.
Kelly’s Shoals
were just below the ferry.
The Narrows are a
section of Cash Canyon which is especially narrow and tightens the stream
considerably, reducing room for maneuver.
Oates Island in
The Narrows was across from the mouth of Bennett Cove, now Bennett Lake.
Gardenhire’s Old Ferry,
as it is referred to in Union military records, crossed just upriver from
Hale’s Bar across from the end of Alley’s, or Cummings’, Trace (now Aetna
Mountain Road).
Hale’s Bar,
toward the left bank, marked the end of both The Narrows and of Cash Canyon.
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