In 1124, David I fitz Malcolm united Alba (the
north), Cumbria, and Lothian as one nation under a single set of laws called
the Law of the Brets and Scots, which remained in force until 1305.
SCOTLAND IN THE 12TH CENTURY
Think of this as a panoramic picture taken with
time-lapse photography of the geographic, political, and ecclesiastical
divisions into which Scotland was divided throughout the 12th century, or more
accurately, from the late 11th century through the end of the reign of William
the Lyon. The purpose here is not so
much a detailed verbal map of the Scottish landscape as it is an almost motion
picture illustrating the changing society over a little more than a century.
Interesting historical fact: Though responsible
for the greatest upsurge, David I was not the first king of Alba or of the
Brets and Scots to import Norman knights.
No, that was Macbeth mac Findlaech, king of Moray and king of Alba,
scion of the line of Oengus I mac Fergus.
What I refer to as provinces below are entities constituting
multiple districts, either those into which the kingdoms that became Scotland
were divided or else how they came into Scotland grouped together. In this case, geography is more important
than politics, so, for example, the mainland provinces of Garmoran, Lorn, and
Argyll are restricted to their mainland territories while the South (or
Western) Isles, also known as the Hebrides, are listed separately.
I have consulted nearly 450 sources to put this
together, but I’m not listing them because this is a blog post and a pretty
damn long one already. While doing this,
I learned of several provinces of which I had no knowledge before.
The provinces are designated by whatever title
under which they first appear in the historical record or under which they were
absorbed into the kingdom. Therefore, we
have mormaerdoms, earldoms, several lordships, one jarldom, one principality,
and a couple I have just designated simply “province”. Most have the title before them under which
they first appeared.
Thanages
refer to an area controlled by a thane in English, formerly called a toiseach
when the kingdom of Alba was officially Gaelic-speaking. There is widespread disagreement among
historians about whether a thane was an independent official in his own right
or merely at the service of the king.
Schires
originally referred to small subdivisions of a larger entity, one I am calling
a province, not the larger counties which later appended the suffix “-shire” to
their name. The word is actually the
same, but I have used an older spelling to help differentiate them. Most of the sources I’ve looked agree that
“schire” was equal to the territory controlled by a thane. Like the thanages, some of these were tiny
(one was six square miles) and others quite huge (the Schire of Coldingham most
of all).
Lordship
here is one of three types. First, the
previously mentioned provinces or “provincial lordships”. Second, those to which some extend that
definition that are larger grants in the south such as Annandale and
Teviotdale, but not me, at least not here.
To me, these are local lordships even if they do cover a larger area; they
are themselves a subdivision of a larger entity, and I rank them with such
entities as the “Lordship of Bothwell”.
Third, some of the native lordships that still existed in the 12th
century alongside the influx of Flemings, Bretons, Normans, and Anglo-Saxons.
See can
either refer to a diocese, the office of bishop, or the seat of a diocese. Here, I have only used it in the last sense.
Abthanery
refers to the non-termon land of a Celtic or Culdee abbey, all its lands owned
by grant or gift not directly related to quarters or worship space. With the one exception of a citation of two
such entities in Anglo-Saxon England in one late 19th century work, such
“abthaneries” exist nowhere except in Scotland.
Usually the lands were only so designated once the attached abbey or no
longer existed, but that was not always the case. Those I have so designated here are
restricted to those specifically referred to as such in charters or records of
contemporary sources.
Abden,
in truth merely another form of the word “abthanery”, refer here to lands which
would otherwise qualify as “abthaneries” if they had been called thus
contemporaneously. Some, in fact, still
operated during the period in question, and a few even until the Reformation.
Barony
here strictly means one identified as being such in the period concerned.
Abbey, Priory, and Preceptory here designate houses founded in the 12th century or
later of orders imported from the Continent.
Royal Burgh
and Burgh were given special
charters from the crown or a local magnate such as a lord, an abbot, or a
bishop granting them privileges above those of most towns. In the case of a royal burgh, that meant it
had permision to engage in foreign trade.
Some smaller units have no such title
designation. These include territories
in the south (meaning south of the Firths) for which such information doesn’t
exist or isn’t available and a large number in the Highlands, a large number of
which were held mostly by the sword, some even maintained thus until the Rising
of ’45. The same goes for islands.
Regarding the names, where possible I have
included the Gaelic and/or Norse original.
JARLDOM OF THE NORTH ISLES
Called Nororeyjar
in Norse, this territory was ruled by the Norse Jarl of Orkney theoretically on
behalf of the King of Norway. It took in
both the Orkney Islands and the Shetland Islands to the north, as well as the
former mormaerdom of Caitt, which included not only the area of the county of
Caithness-shire but also that of Sutherlandshire. After the North Isles came into Scottish
possession, the two archipelagoes became two separate provinces, even if the Earl
of Orkney was usually also Lord of Shetland.
In 1196, William the Lyon asserted Scottish sovereignty over the
mainland territories, slicing off Strathnaver, Assynt, and (East) Sutherland,
allowing the Jarl of Orkney to continue holding what is now Caithness as a
mormaerdom of the Scottish crown. In
1236, the Jarldom was granted to Magnus mac Gille Brighte, Mormaer of Angus,and
his heirs as a fief of Norway. The
territory remained in Scottish hands as a fief of Norway until 1472.
LORDSHIP OF SHETLAND
Called Sealtainn in modern Gaelic, Innes Catt in early Irish, and Hjaltland
in Norse. The first Viking
raiders, and later colonists, may have reached Shetland as early as the late 6th
century. This may have been the cause of
a mass migration to the northern Scottish mainland, where the Catti and the
kingdom of Caitt are reported in Irish, Pictish, and British sources from the
Early Middle Ages, resulting in “Caithness”.
Unst (Omstr in Norse) is the northernmost of
the Shetland Isles.
Yell (Yala in Norse), southeast of Unst, has traditionally
been divided into North, Mid, and South districts
Fetlar
(Faetilar in Norse), due east of Yell
and south of Unst, has been divided into East Isle and West Isle by Funzie Girt
(or Finnigart’s Dike) since the Mesolithic period.
Mainland
(Megenland in Norse), home to BBC
Scotland’s DI Jimmy Perez (of the superb and aptly-named series, Shetland), is divided into Southern,
Central, Western, and Northern districts
Muckle Roe
(Raudoy Mikla in Norse) sits in the
head of St. Magnus Bay off the western coast of the isle of Mainland between
Roe Sound and Swarbucks Minn.
Papa Stour
(Papay Stora in Norse) sits off the
northwest coast of the parish of Sandness and Walls on the isle of Mainland.
Vaila (Valey in Norse) sits off the southern
coast of the parish of Sandness and Walls, separated from the isle of Mainland
by Vaila Sound.
Foula (Fuglaey in Norse, Fuglaigh in Gaelic) is the most remote island of the archipelago,
some 20 miles due west of of the isle of Mainland. It is notable for having remained on the
Julian calendar when the rest of the United Kingdom switched to the Gregorian
in 1752, and still uses it as its official calendar.
Scalloway
(Schaldewage in Norse) Islands are a sub-archipelago off the west
coast of Mainland south of the town Scalloway.
Currently the only three inhabited are East Burra (Barrey in
Norse), West Burra, and Trondra.
Out
Skerries (Austr Sekr in Norse)
are a sub-archipelago due east of Luma Ness on the isle of Mainland with two
inhabited islands, Housay (Husey in Norse) or West Isle to the locals, and Burray
(Borgarey in Norse).
Whalsay
(Hvalsoy in Norse) lies off the east
coast of the Lunning section of Mainland, separated by the island of Linga,
with Lunning Sound to the west of Linga and Linga Sound to the east of it.
Bressay
(Breidoy in Norse) lies off the east
coast of Mainland across Bressay Sound from the parish of Lerwick.
Fair Isle
(Fridarey in Norse, Fara in Gaelic) is the most remote
inhabited island in the United Kingdom, lying halfway between Shetland and
Orkney.
Currently uninhabited islands in the archipelago with
populations in the past include: Mousa,
Noss (Nos in Norse), St. Ninian’s
Isle, Hildasal (Hildasey in Norse), Linga (same in Norse), Oxna
(Yxnoy in Norse), Papa (Papey in Norse), South Havra
(Hafrey in Norse)
JARLDOM OF ORKNEY
Called Arcaidh
in modern Gaelic, Innes Orci in early
Irish, and Orkneyjar in Norse. During the Bronze Age, Orkey was the center
of civilization in the north, as recent archaeological finds make clear. The king of the Orcades was one of those who
formally submitted to Claudius in 43 CE.
It later became part of the kingdom and later mormaerdom of Caitt before
being conquered by the Norse and made the seat of the jarldom of Orkney. The Jarldom of Orkney was later held as a
fiefdom of Norway by the mormaers of Angus, then the mormaers of Strathearn who
also inherited Angus, whose titles later passed by marriage to the Umfravilles,
who passed Orkney and Caithness to the Sinclairs and Angus to the Douglases,
through whom it passed to the Hamiltons.
It became part of the kingdom of Scots in 1472, bringing Shetland along
with it.
The archipelago is separated from Caithness on
mainland Scotland by Pentland Firth.
Mainland
(Mor-thir in Gaelic, Megenland and Hrossey in Norse), also called Pomona,
is divided into East Mainland and West Mainland districts. Seventy-five percent of Orkney’s population
lives here.
See of Birsay
(Birgisherad in Norse) in
northwest mainland was the original capital of Norse ruled Orkney and see of
the Diocese of Orkney, which included both Orkney and Shetland, from 1065 until
the late 12th century.
See of Kirkwall (Kirkjuvagr in Norse) stands at the
head of Kirkwall Bay off the northern coast of southwest Mainland. It has been the capital of Orkney since the
late 12th century and was also home to the see of the Diocese of Orkney. The Cathedral of St. Magnus was begun in 1137
and continued for three centuries that included many additions.
The rest of the islands in the archipelago divide
into two groups:
North Isles
North
Ronaldsay (Rinansey in Norse) is
the noreasternmost in the sub-archipelago.
Sanday
(Sandoy in Norse) lies south of North
Ronaldsay across North Ronaldsay Firth, spreading southwesterly.
Papa
Westray (Papey Meiri in Norse)
sits west and slightly north of Sanday across the North Sound.
Westray
(Vestrey in Norse) is a much larger
island due south of Papa Westray
Eday (Eidoy in Norse) lies southwest of the
tip of Sanday and southeast of the tip of Westray, east of Westray Firth.
Stronsay
(Strjonsey in Norse) lies due south
of Sanday and southeast of Eday.
Papa
Stronsay (Papey Mini or Papey In Litla in Norse) is off the
north coast of Stronsay.
Auskerry
(Austrsker in Norse) sits due south
of Stronsay.
Shapinsay
(Hjalpandisey in Norse) lies south
and west of Stronsay across Stronsay Firth, due south of Eday.
Gairsay
(Gareksey in Norse) sits northwest of
Shapinsay off the eastern coast of Mainland.
Viera (Vigr in Norse) is due north of Gairsay,
south of the island of Rousay across Viera Sound.
Egilsay
(Eaglais in Gaelic, Egilsey in Norse) lies off the east
coast of the island of Rousay across Rousay Sound.
Rousay
(Hrolfsey in Norse) sits northeast of
the parish of Evie on the isle of Mainland.
South Isles
Hoy (Haoy in Norse) lies off the southwest
coast of the isle of Mainland.
Graemsey
(Grimsey in Norse) sits between Hoy
and the Mainland parish of Stromness.
Flotta
(Flottey in Norse) is east of the
southeast coast of Hoy.
South Walls
(Vagaland in Norse) is across Long
Hope sound from the southern coast of Hoy.
South
Ronaldsay (Rinansey in Norse)
lies east of Hoy, Fotta, and South Walls.
Burray
(Borgarey in Norse) sits north of
South Ronaldsay off the southeast coast of the isle of Mainland.
Glims Holm
(Glums Holm in Norse) lies just north
of Burray.
Lamb Holm,
no longer inhabited but home during the Second World War to a group of Italian
POWs who built the chapel that is now the island’s sole attraction.
MORMAERDOM OF CAITHNESS
Called Gallaibh
in Gaelic and Katanes in Norse, Caithness
was one of the first mormaerdoms established in the kingdom of Alba. Like the old kingdom of Caitt which receded
it, it originally took in not only Caithness but Strathnaver and Sutherland,
basically everything south to the River Oykel, to the border of Fortriu, or
Moray (and later of Ross). Its Gaelic
name (“land of the foreigners”) derives from the province’s possession by the
Jarls of Orkney as a fief of the kings of Scots since the time of Sigurd the Stout Hlodvirsson (Jarl of Orkney
991-1014) as Mormaers of Caithness until 1334, when the title to the Scottish
fief became Earl. It is separated from
Sutherland by a range of mountains and hills.
Caithness has for centuries been home to and the possession of the Clan
Sinclair, whose chiefs have been Earls of Caithness since 1455.
Being
under Norse rule for so much of its early existence as unit, Caithness never
developed the same network of thanages, schires, etc., that grew up inthe rest
of what is now Scotland; it did, however, have parishes.
Reay
(Rath in Gaelic) is south of the
North Sea, west of Thurso and Halkirk, north of Halkirk and Kildonan, and east
of Farr in Sutherland.
Thurso (Thorsa in Norse and Theorsa in Gaelic) lies south of the North
Sea, west of Olrig and Bower, north of Halkirk, and east of Reay.
Olrig (Olrick in Norse) lies south
of Dunnet Bay, west of Dunnet parish, north of Bower, and east of Thurso.
Dunnet (Dunaid in Gaelic) lies south
of Pentland Firth, west of Canisbay, north of Bower and Olrig, and east of
Dunnet Bay.
Canisbay (Canaispidh in Gaelic) lies
south of Pentland Firth, west of the North Sea, north of Wick and Bower, and
east of Dunnet.
Wick
(Vik in Norse and Uige in Gaelic) lies south of Bower and
Canisbay, west of Moray Firth, north of Latherton, and east of Latherton,
Watten, and Bower.
Clyth is a district in the northwest corner of the parish of Latherton that
was home to Clan Gunn before they moved west and south across the Morven Hills
into Sutherland.
Latheron (Latharan in Gaelic) lies
south of Watten, Wick, and Halkirk, north and west of the North Sea, and east
of of Caithness.
Halkirk (Hacraig in Gaelic) lies north
of Latherton, east of Caithness, south of Reay and Thurso, and west of Bower,
Watten, and Latherton.
See of Halkirk (Hacraigin Gaelic)
was the seat of the Diocese of Caithness, which covered Caithness,
Durness, Strathnaver, Assynt, and Sutherland, from its establishment through
the early 13th century. At that time, farmers
revolting against the tithe burned down the cathedral, so the bishop moved the
see to Dornoch.
Watten (Bhatan in Gaelic) lies north
of Latherton, east of Halkirk, south of Bower, and west of Wick.
Bower (Bagair in Gaelic) lies north
of Watten, east of Halkirk and Thurso, south of Olrig and Dunnet, and west of
Canisbay and Wick.
LORDSHIP
OF STRATHNAVER
Called Srath Nabhair in Gaelic, also known as Mackay’s
Country (Duthich Mhic Aodh), this area ruled by Clan Mackay
remained completely separate of Sutherland until 1601, when it was joined to it
in the county of Sutherlandshire. Even
then it did not become part of the estate of the Earls of Sutherland until
1729. So, although its lord, Chief of
Clan Aodh or Mhic Aodh, did not hold a title which would rank it as a province,
Strathnaver was a province in all but name.
The western boundary was the border with Caithness, the western limits
of Strathhalladale, and the eastern boundary was the River Borgie, whose mouth
is at Torrisdale Bay. It was separated
from Sutherland by the forests of Dirriechatt (Doire Cait) and the sea is to the north.
Strathhalladale
(Srath Healadail in Gaelic) borders
Caithness to the east and centers on River Halladale with Strathy to the west.
Strathy
(Srathaidh in Gaelic) is the middle
district of the province between Strathhalladle on the east and Strathnaver on
the west.
Strathnaver
(Srath Nabhair in Gaelic) proper is the western eponymous district of
the province between Strathy on the east and Durness at River Borgie on the
west and includes Loch Naver.
Dirrie-chat
(Doire Cait in Gaelic) is the
southern forest district forming the southern boundary of the other three
districts and separating them from Sutherland, sharing the same eastern and
western boundaries as the province.
PROVINCE OF DURNESS
Called Diuranais
in Gaelic and Dyrnes in Norse, this province
in the northwestern corner of Scotland belonged wholly to the Church and was therefore
separate from any secular province. It
lay between River Borgie and Strathnaver in the east and Kyle Sku in the west.
Durness
(Diurnais in Gaelic, Dyrnes in Norse) proper, the district of
Durness, lies between the Kyle of Durness and Loch Eriboll. It includes a section called Strathmore.
Cape Wrath
(An Parbh in Gaelic and Hvarf in Norse), between Loch Eriboll
and Loch Inchard was once home to a large community of crofters, but since the
Highland Clearances all that is left are shepherds and their sheep.
Brae-chat
(Brae Caitt in Gaelic) lies between
Loch Inchard and Loch Laxford, extending into the interior at least as far as
the north side of Loch Shin.
Edderachylis
(Eadar Da Chaolas in Gaelic) lies on
the peninsula between Loch Laxford and Kylesku, extending into the interior at
least as far as the south side of Loch Shin.
It is separated from Sutherland by Dirie Menach.
LORDSHIP OF ASSYNT
Called Assain
in Gaelic, this province was originally carved out of greater Sutherland for
the MacNichols, but 1343 finds David II granting a charter to Torquil MacLeod
of Lewis for the district. While not
truly a province, it was nonetheless free of any suzerainty from outside, save
for the chiefs of Clan MacLeod, and its chieftains held it until 1757. The Minch lies to the west, Loch Assynt to
the south, Kyle Sku to the north, and East Sutherland to the east.
EARLDOM
OF SUTHERLAND
Called Cataibh
in Gaelic and Sudrland in Norse, this
province was the southern part of Caithness of which William, son of Freskin de
Moravia (ancestor of both Clans Murray and Sutherland), was made Earl about
1210. The chiefs of Clan Sutherland were
the first Earls of Sutherland and remained so for more than five hundred years.
Though Sutherland now usually means the entire
area of the former county of Sutherlandshire, for the largest part of its
existence, the province of Sutherland was confined to about one-third of its
later size, with Strathnaver and Durness occupying its north and northwest and
Assynt taking up its west, leaving the southeastern third to the Earl of
Sutherland. This region of the greater
whole is sometimes now referred to as East Sutherland. Naturally, this district is historically
associated with Clan Sutherland.
Separated from Strathnaver by Dirrie-chat from Caithness by River
Helmsdale (aka River Ulley), its prominent water features include Loch Shin,
Loch Choire, Loch a’ Bhealaich, and Loch Truderscaig.
When its parishes were organized they largely
followed the same lines as existing districts, though that was not always the
case. The districts of the same name,
however, restricted to the coast or to the immediate vicinity of the town or
village for which they were named. In
addition to those, a number of others were based on straths and glens.
Abthanery of Old Dornoch (Dornoch
in Gaelic) was the land of the old abbey of Dornoch founded by St. Finnbarr,
which later became the seat of the Diocese of Caithness.
Dornoch (Dornoch in Gaelic) probably included
the whole Dornoch Peninsula north of the firth that was not part of the
abthanery of Old Dornoch.
See of Dornoch (Dornoch in Gaelic), in the
town of Dornoch, was the site to which the see of the Diocese of Caithness was
moved after Halkirk was burned in the early 13th century.
Helmsdale (Srath Bun Ilidh in Gaelic) centered
on the coastal village of that name in the parish of Kildonan at the mouth of
River Ullie/Helmsdale and its surrounding area.
Loth
(Loth in Gaelic) took up the parish
of Loth that was not part of Strathhelmsdale.
Brora (Brura in Gaelic) centered on
the coastal village of that name in the parish of Clyne at the mouth of River
Brora.
Culmailie (Cuil Mhailidh in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Golspie.
Rogart (Raoghard in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name.
Creich (Craoich in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name.
Lairg (An Luirg in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of the name at the southern end of Loch Shin.
Strath h-Uillie (Srath h-Illidh in Gaelic) lay
in the valley of the River Ullie, below the confluence of River Helmsdale and
River Free.
Strathfree (Srath Frithe in Gaelic) was in
the valley of the River Free.
Glenloth (Gleann Loth in Gaelic) was in
the valley of Loth Burn.
Glensletdale was in the valley of the Sletdale Burn.
Strathfleet (Srath Fleoid in Gaelic) was
in the valley of the River Fleet.
Strathbrora (Srath Brura in Gaelic) lay in
the valley of River Brora above its confluence with Black Water.
Glendunrobin (Gleann Dun Robain in Gaelic)
lay in the valley of Golspie Burn above Golspie.
Strathtirry lay in the valley of River Tirry north of and parallel to Loch Shin.
Strath na Seigla (Srath na Sigla in Gaelic) lay
in the valley of Albainn na Seigla above its confluence with River Skinsdale.
Glenskinsdale lay in the valley of the River Skinsdale above its confluence with
Albainn na Seigla.
Glenmuic (Gleann Muice in Gaelic) lay
in the valley of the Ammainn Glen na Muic above its confluence with River
Cassley.
Glencassley (Gleann Carsla in Gaelic) lay
along the valley of River Cassley above its confluence with River Oykel.
Strath an Loin (Srath na Loin in Gaelic) lay
along the Allt a Carr, which empties into the west side of Loch Shin.
Glenfiag (Glenn Fiag in Faelic) lay in
the valley between Loch Fiodhaig and Loch Shin along River Fiag.
Strathvagastie (Srath Bhagastaidh in Gaelic)
lay in the valley of the Allt a Chraisg, which empties into the eastern end of
Loch Naver.
MORMAERDOM OF ROSS
Called Rois
in Gaelic, this province was one of the ancient mormaerdoms of the kingdom of
Scots. In 1147, it was carved out of the
former province of Moray by David I for Malcolm mac Heth as Mormaer after the
death of William fitz Duncan. This
initial grant covered just the districts of Ard Ross, Easter Ross, Mid Ross,
Wester Ross, and the Black Isle, a very limited area compared to its later
extent. After Fitz Duncan’s death in
1168, Ross reverted to the Crown. In
1223, Fearchar mac in t-Sagairt O’Beolain, coarb of St. Maelrubha and Abbot of
Applecross, was made Earl of Ross, and the province greatly expanded after the
Treaty of Largs in 1226. The province
lies north of Rivers Farrar and Beauly, south of River Oykel, east of the sea,
and northwest of Moray.
The original province of Ross included:
Easter Ross
(Ros an Ear or Taobh Sear Rois in Gaelic), or Mahar Ross (Machair Rois), has some of the richest farmland in Scotland,
filling the eastern part of Fearn Peninsula between Dornoch Firth and Cromarty
Firth. This district extends from Tarbet
Ness on the tip of the peninsula west to the River Averon (aka River Alness).
Royal Burgh
of Tain (Baile Dhubhthaich in
Gaelic), granted its charter in 1066 by Malcolm III, is the oldest royal burgh
in Scotland.
Ard Ross
(Aird Rois in Gaelic) is an upland
district taking up western Fearn Peninsula and somewhat more to the west whose
center is ten miles northeast of the town Alness.
Abden of
Kilmuir (Cill Mhoir in Gaelic) was
likely coextensive with the former Kilmuir Easter parish on the north shore
Cromarty Firth in the eastern Fearn Peninsula.
Ferindonald
(Fearann Dhomhnaill in Gaelic), also
known as Mid Ross (Ros Meadhanach), lies between River
Averon and Clyne Burn (Allt na Lathaid
in Gaelic). This district is most famous
as the home of Clan Munro.
Thanage of
Dingwall (Inbhir Pheofharain in
Gaelic) lies in the southwest corner of the Fearn Peninsula just south of
Ferindonald and west and north of Strathpeffer.
Thanage of
Cromarty (Cromba in Gaelic) occupied
the tip of Ardmeanach, probably coextensive with the parish of that name.
Ardmeanach
(An Aird Mheadhanach) or Black Isle (Eilean Dubh in Gaelic) is the peninsula between Moray Firth and
Cromarty Firth, east of River Conan and north of Beauly Firth. Clan Urquhart is most closely associated with
the Black Isle.
Mulbuie
Moor, better known as Mulbuie Common,
was a commonly-held district of farmland, nearly 7000+ acres spreading out over
the center of Black Isle, with a small ridge through it. It was later divided into small crofts, then
the big landowners divided it among themselves.
Ferintosh
(Sgire na Toiseachd in Gaelic, older
form Fearann na Toiseachd) is a small
district in the northwestern corner of Ardmeanach 2 1/4 miles from Dingwall,
primarily of note because it was a remote detached part of the Thanedom of
Calder and the county of Nairnshire.
Abden of
Rosemarkie (Ros Maircnidh in
Gaelic) at the head of Rosemarkie Bay in southeast Ardmenach across from Fort
George was the site of an abbey founded by St. Boniface.
See of
Rosemarkie (Ros Maircnidh in
Gaelic) was the seat of the Diocese of
Ross from its founding by David I in 1124 until the mid-13th century, when
it moved to Fortrose nearby. The Diocese
of Ross included most of the parishes in Ross (the counties of Ross-shire and
Cromartyshire and part of the county of Inverness-shire), including North
Argyll.
See of
Fortrose (A’ Chananaich in
Gaelic) became the seat of the Diocese of Ross in the mid-13th century. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Boniface
was dedicated here in 1304.
Wester Ross
(Ros an Iar or Taobh Siar Rois in Gaelic) in its original form, covered the flatlands
from Mountgerald in the east to Contin in the west, between Rivers Conon and
Orrin in the south and the Heights of Brae in the north.
Strathpeffer
(Srath Pheofhair in Gaelic) is a tiny
district inside the bounds of Wester Ross along the River Peffer.
The later
expanded province of Ross included:
Strathoykel
(Srath Oiceall in Gaelic) is the
district bordering Sutherland hosting Oykel River, which confluences with River
Cassley to become the Kyle of Sutherland which opens into Dornoch Firth.
Strathcarron
(Srath Carrann in Gaelic) lies
north of Lochalsh and east of Torridon, hosting River Carron just before it
opens into Dornoch Firth.
Glenalladale (Gleann Athaladail in Gaelic) lies west
of Strath Carron along River Alladale, which joins Abhainn a’ Glinn Mhoir to
become River Carron.
Glenmore (Gleann Mor in Gaelic) lies west of Glen Alladale along Abhainn
a’ Glinn Mhoir, which joins River Alladale to become River Carron.
Glencalvie (Gleann Chailbhidh in Gaelic) is a narrow north to south valley
hosting the Water of Glencalvie which flows into River Carron.
Glendiebidale (Gleann Diobadail in Gaelic) at head
of Glen Calvie hosts River Diebidale, which joins Abhainn Coire a’ Mhalagain to
become the Water of Glen Calvie.
Strathdirrie
(prob. Srath Doire in Gaelic) lies
south of Dirrie More and east of Fannich Forest, southwest of Glen Alladale,
Glen More, Glen Calvie, and Glen Diebidale, hosting Loch Glascarnoch and River
Glascarnoch, which flows into Black Water.
Strathvaich
(Srath a Bhathaich in Gaelic) is a
narrow valley east of Strath Dirrie hosting Loch Vaich and Black Water, which
meets River Glascarnoch at the mouth of the strath.
Strathrannoch
(Srath Raineach in Gaelic) is the
narrow valley to the east of Strathvaich through which Rannoch Burn flows to
meet Black Water.
Strathgarve
(Srath Ghairbh in Gaelic) lies east
of Lochbroom, centered about the eponymous valley, and north of the district of
Strathbran. Black Water flows into and
out of Loch Garve and Loch na Croic here then into River Conon. After the downfall of the Lordship of the
Isles, it was removed from the Earldom of Ross and granted to the Mackenzies.
Strathbran
(Srath Breamhainn in Gaelic) lies
east of the district of Lochbroom between those of Strathgarve and
Strathconon. This is the valley of the
River Conon. The Mathesons are or were
its oldest inhabitants. After the
downfall of the Lordship of the Isles, it was removed from the Earldom of Ross
and granted to the Mackenzies.
Strathconon
(Srath Chonainn in Gaelic) lies
twelve miles west of the town of Dingwall at the head of Cromarty Firth, south
of Strathbran. This is the valley of Loch
Meig and River Meig, which flows into River Conon. After the downfall of the Lordship of the
Isles, it was removed from the Earldom of Ross and granted to the Mackenzies.
Glenorrin (Gleann Oirrinn in Gaelic) runs west to east between the
district of Strath Conon in Ross and the district of Glen Strathfarrar in
Moray, hosting River Orrin, hosting Loch Orrin and River Orrin, which flows
into River Conon.
PROVINCE
OF NORTH ARGYLL
Called Tuath
Earr a’ Gaidheal in Gaelic, North Argyll was the name for the mainland
territories of the Sheriffdom of Skye, which also included the islands of Skye,
Lewis, Eigg, and Rhum, the entirety of which was later absorbed into the
Earldom of Ross. The name North Argyll
was used well into the 15th century.
Coigach
(An Choigeach in Gaelic) occupies the
peninsula south of Assynt, between Loch Enard on the north and the mouth of
Loch Broom to the south, and a line north from the village of Ullapool on the east.
Lochbroom
(Loch Bhraoin in Gaelic) lies
south of Assynt and west of Coigach and the Minch, with Dundonnell and Gruinard
to the south, and Strathgarve to the east.
Dundonnell (Achadh Da Dhomhnaill in Gaelic) sits between Lochbroom and
Gruinard about Little Loch Broom.
Gruinard
(Gruinaird or Ghruinneard in Gaelic) lies Gruinard River on the north and Loch
Maree and the district of Gairloch on the south, its western end being the
Rubha Mor peninsula between Gruinard Bay and Loch Ewe , its eastern end the
district of Strathbraan.
Gairloch
(Gearrloch in Gaelic) lies on the
seacoast southwest of Loch Maree and the district of Gruinard, east of Loch
Torridon and north of the district of Torridon with the boundary being Rivers
Torridon and River Guirrone (A’ Gharibhe).
Abthanery
of Applecross (A’ Chomraich
in Gaelic) is on a peninsula of the western seaboard between Loch
Torriden and Loch Carron. It is famed as
the home of the abbey of St. Maelrubha, with the district being abbey lands, or
an appin. The O’Beolain coarb abbots
eventually became the Gillanders Earls of Ross, who eventually took Ross as
their surname. Unlike most of the other
early abbeys in Scotland which were part of the Muintir Cholmcille based in
Iona, Applecross, like Lismore and Appin of Lorn, belonged to Muintir Comghaill
based in Bangor.
Torridon
(Toirbheartan in Gaelic) lies south of Gairloch, west of Applecross, and
north of the district of Lochalsh.
Strathcarron
(Srath Carrann in Gaelic) lies west
of Applecross and southwest of Torridon, centered on the lower western River
Carron in Ross which rises in Glen Carron before entering Loch Scavan, after
which it empties into Loch Carron
Kishorn
(Ciseorn in Gaelic) lies
south of the district of Torridon between Loch Kishorn and Loch Carron.
Lochalsh
(Loch Aillse in Gaelic) lies on a peninsula between Loch
Carron and Loch Alsh
Kintail
(Cinn Taile in Gaelic) is bound by
Glen Shiel to the south, Strath Croe and Gleann Gaorsaic to the north, An
Caorann Mor to the east, and the heads of Loch Cluanie and Loch Duich to the
west, as well as including the peninsula between the latter two. Kintail is famous as the home and base of
Clan Mackenzie.
Glenshiel
(Gleann Seile in Gaelic) occupies the
northern third of the peninsula between Loch Duich to the north and a ridge of
hills dividing it from Glenelg to the south, which belongs to the province of
Garmoran, with Kintail to the east.
LORDSHIP OF GARMORAN
Called A’
Gharbh Mhorbhairne in Gaelic, this province was once part of the Norse
Kingdom of the Isles. Skene claims that
Garmoran existed as a mormaerdom of the kingdom of Scots prior to Clan Ruari coming
into possession of it after 1210.
However, to have been a mormaerdom it would have had to have been part
of the Kingdom of Scots, not the Kingdom of the Isles, which it was not until
the territories of the latter were yielded to the sovereignty of Scotland in
the Treaty of Perth in 1266, with Clan Ruari already Lords of Garmoran. The province later fell to Clan Ranald
(MacDonalds of Clanranald).
Besides the mainland districts listed here, the
lordship included the Small Isles (Rum, Canna, Eigg, Muck). The whole province is now usually considered
part of Argyll.
Glenelg
(Gleann Ealg in Gaelic) lies south of
Glenshiel, divided by a ridge of hills, on the same peninsula and north of Loch Cluanie, with Kintail to the
east.
Knoydart
(Cnoideart in Gaelic) occupies
the peninsula between Loch Hourn on the north and Loch Nevis on the south.
Morar (Morar in Gaelic) surrounds Loch Morar on
the peninsula between Loch Nevis and Loch nan Uamh.
Arisaig
(Arasaig in Gaelic) occupies a
peninsula of the same name off the southwest corner of Morar peninsula.
Ardnish
(Ardnais in Gaelic) lies south of
Arisaig in the tiny peninsula between Loch nan Uamh and Loch Ailfort off the
southern edge of Morar peninsula. In the
Second World War, it was cleared to become the training ground for Royal Marine
Commandos.
Moidart
(Muideart in Gaelic) lies east of
Loch Ailort, north and west of River Shiel and Loch Shiel, and south of Morar.
Ardnamurchan
(Aird nam Murchan in Gaelic) lies at
the western end of a peninsula of the same name Loch Shiel and Loch Sunart, with
the district of Sunart to the east. The
district was once home to a branch of Clan Donald known as the MacIans, which
is now extinct.
Sunart
(Suaineart in Gaelic) lies east
of Ardnamurchan on the peninsula between Loch Shiel and Loch Sunart and west of
Ardgour.
Ardgour
(Aird Ghobhnar in Gaelic) lies east
of Sunart, south and west of Loch Eil, and north of Kingairloch, separated by
Glen Tarbet. This was the home of the MacMasters
before Clan Gillean displaced them.
Kingairloch
(Ceann a’ Gheà rrloch in Gaelic) lies
south of Glen Tarbet and Ardgour, west of Loch Linnhe, north of the Sound of
Mull, once home to the Macleans of Kingairloch.
Morvern
(A’ Mhorbhairne in Gaelic), formerly
known as Kinelvadon (Cineal Bhaodain
in Gaelic), lies south of Loch Sunart and Glen Tarbet, northwest of Loch
Linnhe, and east and northeast of the Sound of Mull. The Cineal Bhaodain were a kindred of the Dal
Riata. Clan Innes held the district
until 1358, when the Lord of the Isles gave it to Clan Gillean.
LORDSHIP OF LORN
The original province of Lorne originally included
all the districts listed here. In this
definition, Lorn is divided into three parts: Upper Lorn (Braigh Latharna)
is north of Loch Etive; Mid Lorn (Meadhan Lhatharna) is south of Loch
Etive to Nether Lorn; Nether Lorn (Latharna Iochdarach) lies south of a
line between Loch Avich in the east and Loch Melfort in the west to the
Craignish Peninsula.
The province is named for the Cenel Loairn who
once ruled Dal Riata alternately with the Cenel nGabhrain. As a lordship, it was created out of Argyll
for the Clan Dughall by David II, but it had already called by that name since
the days of the Dal Riata because it was the seat of power of Cenel Laoirn
before it merged with the royal dynasty of Fortriu. The province is most identified with Clan
Dougall, though they have not held it for centuries.
Lismore (Lios Mor
in Gaelic) lying at the mouth of Loch Linnhe, was home to the see of the
Diocese of Argyll. In the early days of
Christianity in Scotland, this island was home to a hermitage of St. Moluag
that developed into an abbey. Unlike
most of the other early abbeys in Scotland which were part of the Muintir
Cholmcille based in Iona, Lismore, and its mainland gleve land, Appin of Lorn, belonged to Muintir Comghaill
based in Bangor.
See of
Lismore (Lios
Mor in Gaelic) was the seat of the Diocese of Argyll erected by the
Pope Innocent III under William the Lyon.
The Cathedral of St. Moluag was built in the 14th century. The Diocese of Argyll covered Argyll, Lorn, and
Garmoran, or the mainland part of the county of Argyllshire.
Glencoe
(Gleann Comhan in Gaelic) is on the
northern outskirts of Appin, a narrow district running from west to east along
the south side of Loch Leven. The
MacIains of Glencoe held it for centuries and were the victims of the infamous
massacre of 1692.
Duror (Durar in Gaelic) lies south of Loch
Leven, east of River Laroch, and north of the southern bounds of Glen Duror
with Loch Linnhe to the west. It is
often counted as part of Appin (its full name in Gaelic is Durar na h-Apann), though several medieval charters clearly distinguish
the two.
Appin (An Apainn in Gaelic), more properly Appin of Lismore, was the land of the
abbey of St. Moluag on the nearby Isle of Lismore in Loch Linnhe, which
originally probably included Duror. Also
known as the Appin of Lorn and the Appin of Lismore, it is bound by Loch Linnhe
on the west, Glen Duror on the north, Loch Creran on the south, and including
Glen Creran on the east. Its fame comes
from having long been the domain of the Stewarts of Appin, who were once the
Stewarts of Lorn.
Benderloch
(Meadarloch in Gaelic, older
name Beinn eadar da loch) lies between Loch Creran, River Ure, and River
Creran on the northwest and west and Loch and Glen Etive on the east. Important sections include Glen Ure, Glen
Duff (Gleann Dubh), and Gleann Creran.
Ardchattan (Aird Chatain in Gaelic) occupied the headland of Ardchattan,
separated from the rest of Benderloch by Glen Salach. It was the site of a daugher house of Iona
and later became home to the Valliscaulian Priory
of Ardchattan in 1230.
Glen Etive Hills are those east of Loch and Glen Etive which
divide them from Glen Strae and contain within a number of glens that became
home to clans and their followers. The
central geographic feature is Glen Etive.
Glenetive (Gleann Eite in Gaelic) is the valley through which River Etive
runs from the head of Glen Coe south and southwest thorugh the Glen Etive Hills
to empty into Loch Etive.
Glenoe (poss. Gleann Notha in Gaelic) lies north of Ben Cruachan along
the River Noe which empties into Loch Etive.
The Clan Macintyre made its home there as early as the 13th century as
foresters to the MacDougalls and managed to keep that post for the Stewarts and
Campbells.
Glenliever (Gleann Libhir in Gaelic) lies north of Glen Noe, and as Glen
Liever is readily accessible only from Loch Etive, most of its settlement was
concentrated at Inverliver (Inbhir Libhir) on the loch.
Glenkinglass (Gleann Chonghlais in Gaelic) is a
long crooked glen whose river flows east from its source in the Glen Etive
Hills, makes a sharp southward turn on reaching the valley floor, then turns
west to flow into Loch Etive at Ardmaddy.
Lorne (Latharna in Gaelic and Laoirn in Old Irish) the
district lies west of Lusrugan Burn, Loch Nell, and River Nell, north of Loch
Melford, and east of Loch Linnhe. Use of
the term district of Lorne often includes those of Muckrain, Kilmelford, and
Craignish.
Muckairn
(Mucarna in Gaelic) lay west of Lorne
district at Lusrugan Burn, east of River and Loch Awe, north of Loch Avich, and
west of Loch Linnhe.
Kilmeford
(Cill Mheallaird in Gaelic) was south
of Loch Avich and Loch Melford, east of Loch Awe, north of Craignish and
Ardskeodenish, and west of Loch Linnhe.
Craignish
(Creiginis in Gaelic) is west of
River Barbreck and south of Staing Mor to include all of Craignish Peninsula.
LORDSHIP OF ARGYLL
Called Earr
a’ Gaidheal in Gaelic, the province of Argyll was the heart of the old
kingdom of (eastern) Dal Riata. The name
Earr a’ Gaidheal means seacoast, or
border, of the Gaels.
The province first appears in records under this
name when Somerled mac Gillebride is called king of Argyll in Irish annals,
though to the Hebridean Norse he was lord of Argyll while to the Scots he was
mormaer of Argyll. At its greatest
extent in this definition, Argyll took in the coastal districts from the Mull
of Kintyre in the south to Coigeach and Lochbroom in the north.
Argyll also gave its name to a hereditary
sheriffdom and a county, both of which had borders flucuating throughout time
and very different from each other. The
province of Argyll is, naturally, associated with Clan Campbell, whose chiefs
have been Dukes of Argyll for centuries.
What I mean by Argyll in this case is everything east of Loch Eil, Loch
Linnhe, and the Firth of Lorne, east of Rannoch, Breadalbane, Loch Long, and
the Firth of Clyde, and south of Loch Leven and Lochaber.
Districts in (mainland) Argyll include:
Ardskeodenish
was the old name, no longer used, for the district south of Kilmelford and
southwest of Loch Awe to the Crinan Canal (formerly the Isthmus of Crinan). This district has long been considered part
of Argyll district.
Argyll (Earr a’ Gaidheal in Gaelic) district is
the core possession of Clan Campbell as Lords, Earls, Marquises, and Dukes of
Argyll, originally called the district of Lochawe. The district of Argyll lies between Loch Awe
and Loch Fyne, bound on the north by Glenstrae and Glenorchy and on the south
by the district of Ardskeodenish. This
area is sometimes also called Mid Argyll (Meadhan
Eairr a’ Gaidheal), especially in the larger context of the county of Argyllshire.
MacGregor’s Country (Duthaich Mhic Ghriogair in Gaelic) is my own neologism, a collective term for the three
sections in northeast Argyll held by Clan Gregor, three adjacent rivers and
their valleys: Glen Strae, Glen Orchy, and Glen Lyon. Its boundaries are Rannoch Moor on the north,
Drumalban on the east, Argyll district and Ardkinglas on the south, and the
Glen Etive Hills to the west.
Glenstrae
(Gleann Sreith) centers on River
Strae running northeast to southwest and emptying into the north end of Loch
Awe. It was one of the original
strongholds of Clan Gregor, who built the original Kilchurn Castle.
Glenorchy
(Gleann Urchaidh) the next glen
southeast, separated from it by the mountains Beinn Donachain and Beinn Mhic
Mhonaidh, is widely held to be the original home of Clan Gregor, or at least
home of the tribe when it became Clan Gregor. Its head touches the eastern
border of Breadalbane and its mouths opens into Campbell-held Loch Awe.
Glenlochy
(Gleann Lochaidh) lies to the southeast of Glen Orchy,
separated from it by Beinn Udfaidh and Beinn na Sroine. Flowing from its source, Lochan na Bi, River
Lochy confluences with River Orchy some distance before the latter empties into
Loch Awe.
Ardkinglas
(Aird Chonghlais in Gaelic) occupies
12,000 acres between Cowall in the south and Glen Lyon in the north.
Cowall
(Comghall in Gaelic) occupies the
peninsula between Loch Fyne to the west and Loch Long and the Firth of Clyde to
the east, southwest of Long Goil. Its
name derives from the Cineal Comghaill of the Dal Riata. Cowall is most associated with Clan Lamont,
but also with Clan Ewen.
Abden of
Kilmun (Cill Mhunna in Gaelic)
were the lands between Loch Eck and Loch Long on the Cowall Peninsula belonging
to the abbey of St. Mund.
Knapdale
(Cnapadal in Gaelic) lies
between the district of Ardskeodenish, separated at the Crinan Canal (formerly
the Isthmus of Crinan), and the Isthmus of Tarbet, on the other side of which
lies the district of Kintyre.
Historically, the district is identified with Clan MacMillan.
Kintyre
(Cinn Tire in Gaelic) lies
south of Knapdale, separated by the Isthmus of Tarbet, occupying the peninsula
south to include the Mull of Kintyre. The
district is most associated historically with Somerled mac Fergusa, Clan Donald,
its later branch Clan Alister, and the main branch of Clan Eacharn.
Abbey of Saddell (Saghadal in Gaelic) on the east
shore of mid-Kintyre was a Cistercian house founded by Ranald mac Somerled,
King of the Isles and Kintyre.
LORDSHIP OF THE (SOUTH) ISLES
Called Sudreyjar
(South Isles) in Norse, Innes Gall (Foreigners’
Isles) in Old Irish, and Na
h-Eileanan an Iar (Western Isles) in Gaelic, the
Hebrides became a political entity in 900 when Ketil Flatnose was sent there by
the Jarl of Orkney to put down a rebellion.
Ketil decide the best way to do that was to kick ass and become
king. For the next 250 years, the entire
Hebrides archipelago was ruled by Norse kings.
Though sometimes held by the same person, the titles were separate; King
of the South Isles, which included the mainland territory from the Mull of Kintrye
to the district of Coigeach; King of Mann; King of the Rhinns (of Galloway);
and (sometimes) King of Dublin.
In 1156, Somerled mac Gillebride, lord of Kintyre,
rose up and in two years had the entire realm in his hands. After his death in 1164, Godfrey Olafsson
regained the Isle of Man and the Outer Hebrides plus the Isle of Skye. The remainder was split three ways among the
sons of Somerled, with Argyll, except for Kintyre, going to Clan MacDougall,
Garmoran going to Clan Ruari, and Kintyre, Islay, and the remaining Inner
Hebrides going to Clan Donald. Somerled’s
son Ranald held Kintyre, Islay, and the other southern Hebrides with the title
King of the Isles and Kintyre, Dougall held mainland Argyll and the middle
Hebrides with the title King of Argyll and the Isles, and Angus held Arran and
Bute.
After the brothers died, no one from Clan
Somhairle held the title of king and they must have fallen back under the rule
of the Isle of Mann, because the annals record that they gained independence
from the King of Mann and the North Isles (here meaning the Outer Hebrides
rather than Orkney and Shetland) in 1227, though not from the King of
Norway.
All the Isles were annexed to the Scottish crown
in 1266, and the big lordships reduced.
In 1292, North Argyll, Skye, and the Outer Isles were given to the Earl
of Ross as Sheriff of Skye. After being
rewarded for service to Robert the Bruce and courted by Edward I Balliol, the
chiefs of Clan Donald of Islay established what became known as the Lordship of
the Isles, lasting from 1336 to 1493.
At its height, the Lordship of the Isles included all
the South Isles and the Isle of Mann (briefly) as well as the mainland provinces
of the Earldom of Ross, Argyll, Lorn, Garmoran, and North Argyll in Scotland
and the Glens of Antrim in Ireland.
Outer Hebrides
(na h-Eileanan a-Muigh in Gaelic)
North Rona (Ronaigh in Gaelic) is the most remote of the British Isles and
the closest neighbor to the Faroe Islands.
It has been unihnabited since 1854.
Lewis (Ljodhus in Norse and Leodhas in
Gaelic), also called Lewis and Harris (Ljodhus ok Herad in Norse and
Leodhas is na Hearadh), is the largest island of the Outer
Hebrides and the third largest island in the British Isles. The latter name, “Lewis and Harris”, may be
more common now, but historically that was not the case. It is divided into two districts by Loch Seaforth
on the east and Loch Resort on the west, the larger district of Lewis in the
north and the smaller Harris in the south.
Both districts were home to separate branches of Clan Leod, the MacLeods
of Dunvegan and Harris being the senior and the MacLeods of Lewis and Raasay
being the junior.
Great Bernera (Bjarnar Oy in Norse and Bearnaraigh
Mor in Gaelic) is a small island of the northwest coast of the Isle of
Lewis.
Scalpay (Skalproy in Norse and Sgalpaigh in Gaelic) is just
offshore from the Isle of Lewis near the middle of the eastern coast. It is also called Scalpay of Harris to
distinguish it from Scalpay of Skye.
Taransay (Taransey in Norse and Tarasaigh in Gaelic) sits off the
western coast of the Isle of Lewis near the northern corner of the district of
Harris. It was inhabited until the
1940s, reinhabited, and abandoned since 1974.
The next
four islands have often been considered one unit under the names Uist, and some
authors have even written as if Uist were one island.
North Uist
(Uibhist a Tuath in Gaelic)
lies south of the Isle of Lewis. It was
part of the Lordship of Garmoran until the Clan Ruari died out, then it passed
to Clan Donald of Sleat.
Benbecula
(Beinn nam Fadhl in Gaelic)
lies just south of North Uist. It was
also part of the Clan Ruari lands, then became home to the MacDonalds of
Benebecula, a branch of Clan Ranald, the MacDonalds of Garmoran.
South Uist
(Uibhist a Deas in Gaelic) is
immediately south of Benbecula. It is
another possession of Clan Ruari inherited by Clan Ranald.
Barra (Barraigh in Gaelic) lies south of South Uist. Another possession of Clan Ruari, it passed
to the Lord of the Isles after the chief line of the MacRuaris died out. In the early 15th century, the Lord of the
Isles granted it to Clan Neil.
Vatersay (Bhatarsaigh in Gaelic) is the southernmost of the Outer Isles,
just off the southern coast of Barra.
St. Kilda (Hiort in Gaelic) is an isolated archipelago 64 due west of
North Uist. It’s largest island, Hirta (also
Hiort), is the only member of the group ever permanently inhabited. In 1930, the inhabitants were removed to
Morvern at their own request, and the archipelago has been deserted since.
Inner Hebrides
(na h-Eileanan a-Staigh in Gaelic)
Skye (Sgitheanach in Gaelic and Skid in Norse), the largest of the Inner
Hebrides, lies off the coast of “North Argyll” from Gairloch to Morar. Legend has it that the name derives from the
Irish battle goddess Scathach who among other feats trained Cuchulain in the
art of battle.
The island is divided into several districts
mostly based on its several peninsulas. Trotternish (Trondairnis) held by
the MacLeods of Harris then the MacDonalds of Sleat, is in the northwest; Waternish (Bhatairnis) lies to
its west, held by the MacLeods of Lewis; Diurnish
(Diuirinis), with Dunvegan, seat of the MacLeods of Harris, is the
westermost of the northern peninsulas; Minginish
(Minginis) is the on the south-central side; Strathaird (Srath na h-Airde),
once home to Clan Fingon (Mackinnons), points directly south; Sleat (Sleibhte in Gaelic, Slettr
in Norse) to its south is home to Clan Uisdean (or the MacDonalds of Sleat); Strath Swordale (Srath Shuardail),
also held once by the Macknnons, lies to the north of Sleat separated by a
narrow isthmus; Red Cuillin (Beanntan
Dearga), named for the hills that occupy most of it, sits to the
northwest of Strath; and Black Cuillin
(An
Cuiltheann) lies west
of Glen Sligachan across from Red Cuillin, east of Minginish, north of
Strathaird, and south of the rolling moors that occupy the center of the
island.
See of
Snizort (Sniothasort in Gaelic) was
a seat of the Diocese of Mann and the Isles, and for a time after 1458, the
seat of the Diocese of the Isles for the Scottish Church. Its seat, the Cathedral of St. Columba, stood
in the district of Snizort on Skye until the Reformation. The parish forms the southern part of the
district of Trotternish.
Raasay
(Ratharsair in Gaelic, Hrossey in Norse) sits east of Skye
across the Sound of Raasay and west of Applecross across the Sound of
Applecross. Rumm lies just to the north
and Scalpay of Skye lies just to the south.
It is traditionally the home (along with Knapdale) of Clan Sweeney,
before it left for Ireland during the Second War of Independence to become
gallowglasses for the O’Donnells of Tir Connaill.
South Rona
(Ronaigh in Gaelic) lies just
north of Raasay. It belonged to the
Laird of Raasay, and during the 16th century was a refuge for pirates, much
like Connemara in Ireland.
Scalpay (Sgalpaigh in Gaelic), also known as Scalpay of Skye, sits
southeast of South Rona off the eastern coast of Skye.
Small Islands (Eileanan
Tarsainn in Gaelic) were
part of the inheritance of Ragnald mac Somerled in 1164, part of the Lordship
of Garmoran. The group lies south of
Skye, west of Morar and Arisaig, and north of Ardnamurchan, Tiree, and
Coll. Rum (same in Gaelic) is the
largest and is associated with St. Beccan; Eigg (Eige), the next largest,
lies southeast of Rum and was once home to a abbey founded by St. Donnan; Canna
(Canaigh), northeast of Rum, belonged to Iona in the early Christian era;
Sanday (Sandaigh) is a tidal island attached to Canna at low
tide; and Muck (Muc), southwest of Eigg, was also owned by Iona
and had a hermit living on it. The rest
have never been inhabited.
Coll (Colla in
Gaelic) lies south of Rum and west of Mull across the Passage of Coll. It was long held by a branch of the Macleans
whose main antagonists were their cousins, the Macleans of Duart.
Tiree (Tiriodh
in Gaelic) sits southwest of Coll. west of Mull across the Passage of
Tiree. It was home to another small
branch of Macleans.
Mull (Muile in
Gaelic) lies across the Sound of Mull from Morvern and across the Firth of
Lorne from Lorne. Its sections included the Ross of Mull (An Ros
Mhuileach), Brolass (Brolas), Airdmeanach (An Aird
Mheadhanach), Torosay (Torr Raseach), Garmony (poss. Garbh
Mhoniadh), Aros (Arois), Mornish, Quinish, Mishnish,
Duart (Dhubhairt), and Lochbuie (Loch Buiadh). It was home to both Clan Maclean of Duart and
its offshoots and Clan Maclaine of Lochbuie and its.
Ulva (Ulbha in
Gaelic) is a small island off the western tip of the Ross of Mull. It is best known for being home to Clan
MacQuarrie.
Iona (I Chaluim
Chille in Gaelic) was in its heyday the most important place in the
Hebrides, maybe even in the British Isles.
After Columba (Colmcille) established his abbey there, it became the
most prestigious center of Christianity in the British Isles and its abbot the
primate of Ireland, Scotland, and northern England (and perhaps more), much
more so than either Armagh or Cashel.
When the primacy of the Irish church was split between Derry in Ireland
and Dunkeld in Scotland, the abbey declined, then it closed in the middle of
the 9th century.
Abbey
of Iona (I Chaluim Chille in Gaelic) was established in 1203 by Ranald
mac Somerled, King of the Isles and Kintyre, with a house of Benedictine monks. It closed during the Reformation. The abbey now houses Iona Community, founded
in 1938.
The abbey became the see of the Diocese of the Isles when it was moved
here from Snizort on the Isle of Skye.
The seat was known as the Cathedral of St. Mary.
Priory
of Iona (I Chaluim Chille in Gaelic) was established in 1203 by Ranald,
King of the Isles, with his sister Bethoc as prioress over a chapter of
Augustinian nuns.
Jura (Diura in Gaelic) is a long narrow island
pointing northeast-southwest almost bisected in the middle by Loch Tarbet
coming in on its west side. It lies
across the Sound of Jura from mainland Knapdale. Loch Tarbet divided the island conveniently
into two districts, the northern held by the Macleans of Duart and the southern
by Clan Donald of Dunnveg (Islay and Kintyre).
Colonsay
(Colbhasa in Gaelic) lies west
of Jura across the Sound of Jura and is best known for being home to Clan
Macfie.
Oronsay (Orasaigh in Gaelic), also held by the Macfies, then the
MacDonalds of Dunnyveg, lies just south of Colonsay. Its names comes from St. Oran, who
established a satellite abbey of Iona here the same year Columba established
Iona.
Islay (Ile in Gaelic) sits south of Colonsay
and Oronsay across the Passage of Oronsay and was long the chief seat of Clan
Donald of Dunnyveg, also known as Clan Ian More and Clan Donald of Islay,
Kintyre, and the Glens of Antrim (before those in Ulster became their own
clan). It was home to the ancestors of
the clan before the Lordship of the Isles, it was the seat of the Lordship of
the Isles, and later of Clan Ian Mor until it went to the Campbells in 1610.
Gigha (Giogha in Gaelic) lies of the western
coast of Kintyre, separated from it by Gigha Sound and from Islay by the
Passage of Jura. It was the original
home of Clan Neill of Gigha, no relation to the MacNeils of Barra.
Islands of the Clyde
Arran (Arainn in Gaelic) lies off the east
coast of Kintyre and is divided into the districts of Brodick, Lamlash,
Southend, Shirkin, and Loch Ranza. After
1266, Arran was annexed to the Crown and eventually passed to the head of the
House of Hamilton in the 15th century.
Bute (Bhoid in Gaelic), also called Eileann a’ Mhoide, or “Island where the
Court of Justice sits”, lies south of Cowall directly below Loch Riddon between
the two Kyles of Bute. The island came to
the House of Stewart at the beginning of the 12th century during a period of
dispute among Clan Somhairle.
Great
Cumbrae (Cumaradh Mor in
Gaelic) lies south of Bute and west of the coast of the district of Cunningham
parallel to Largs. It is associated with
St. Mirin, companion of St. Patrick who founded the abbey of Paisley, and two
martyrs, Sts. Maura and Britta.
Holy Isle
(An t-Eilean Ard in Gaelic) or Molaise’s Island (Eilean MoLaise in Gaelic) gets its second name from having been
home and later abbey of St. Molaise.
Isle of Mann
The Isle of Mann was an integral part of the
Kingdom of the (South) Isles, and went with it when it became a Scottish
possession after the Treaty of Perth in 1266, where it remained until 1346 when
subterfuge between David II of Scots and Edward III of England saw it fall to
the latter.
See of Peel
(Purt ny h-Inshey in Manx) was the first seat of the Diocese of Mann and
the Isles, or Diocese of Sodor. But it appears from contradiction in the
records that more than one diocese operated simultaneously in the early
centuries. There were this see, the See
of Peel; the See of Iona; and the See of Snizort on Skye. Or it could be the case that these were
different seats for the same see. The
church seat was the Cathedral of St. German.
The Isle of Mann was split from the rest of the
diocese and attached directly to the Church of England in the year 1458. The rest became the Diocese of the Isles of
the Scottish Church.
MORMAERDOM OF MORAY
Called Moireabh
in Gaelic, Moray is the “newer” name for Fortriu, home to the Verturiones of
late Roman times, a realm dominating all the Picts of the north until 848. Though to the crown its rulers were Mormaers,
they often claimed the title King, even challenging the monarch in the east for
supremacy. As rulers of Moray, they held
everything north of Argyll to Caithness and east to include the offspring of
the kingdom of Ce. The districts of the
western seaboard fell to the Norse and became part of the Kingdom of the
(South) Isles after the 9th century.
Greater Moray was broken up by David I in 1130.
Afterwards, the Laich of Moray, roughly the county
of Morayshire (also known as Elginshire, or Elginshire and Foress-shire), was
held directly by the Crown. The
remainder was given to William fitz
Duncan as Mormaer, and he held it until 1147.
When Robert I made Thomas Randolph the Earl of Moray, he gave him all
its old territory including the Laich, minus Ross and the coastal territories. In the aftermath of the turbulent period
which saw the Lord of the Isles become Earl of Ross, Moray as such was restricted
to the Laich permanently.
The latest (fifth) creation of the Earldom of
Moray was in 1562, and the Stuart descendants still hold the title. However, the family most associated with the
province of Moray due to the fact they adopted its name is Clan Murray, though
they have long since been in Atholl.
Stratherrick
(Srath Fharragaig in Gaelic) runs
parallel to Loch Ness on its east side, separated from it by a narrow
ridge. The district ultimately became one
of the possessions of Clan Fraser of The Aird.
Strathdearn
(Srath Eireann in Gaelic), formerly
Strathearn, is the valley through which the River Findhorn (Abhainn Eireann in Gaelic) flows toward
Moray Firth. It was home to the
Mackintosh wing of Clan Chattan and a branch of Clan Bean.
Royal Burgh
of Forres (Farrais in Gaelic) was
granted its charter around 1140 by David I.
Abbey of
Kinloss (Cinn Lois in Gaelic) was
a Cisterican house established by David I in 1150, founded by monks from the
Abbey of Melrose.
Strathnairn
(Srath Narann in Gaelic) lies to the
west of Strath Dearn along the valley of River Nairn, which flows into the
Moray Firth. It was home to Clan Bean, Clan
Dhu, Clan Ay (a branch of Clan Shaw), and a branch of the Mackintoshes.
Royal Burgh
of Invernairn (Inbhir Narann in
Gaelic; now just Nairn) was
chartered by William the Lyon.
Culloden
Moor (Cuil Lodair in Gaelic) is
east of Inverness and west of River Nairn in the lower Strath Nairn.
Thanage of
Calder (Caladar in Gaelic), also Cawdor, lay east of River Nairn in
Strath Nairn five miles southwest of the town of Nairn.
Royal Burgh
of Inverness (Inbhir Nis in
Gaelic) was chartered by David I. It
took in a substantial amount of land surrounding the royal burgh of Inverness,
fitting for the capital of the Western Highlands.
Thanage of
Kinmylies (Ceann a’ Mhilidh in
Gaelic) lay just west of the canal that forms the western border of Inverness.
Thanage of
Essich (Easaich in Gaelic) lay
four miles south of Inverness, on the east side of River Ness.
Thanage of
Moyness (Muighnis in Gaelic) lay two
miles southeast of the village of Auldearn, which is seven and a half miles
southeast of the town of Nairn.
Thanage of
Brodie (Brothach in Gaelic) lay
just over three miles northeast of Auldearn, centered on Brodie Castle, which
still stands.
Thanage of
Dyke (Dig in Gaelic) lay just a
little over a mile northeast of Brodie.
Thanage of
Moray (Moireabh in Gaelic) lay
between River Lossie and Lethen Burn north of River Lossie in the parishes of
Spynie and Alves.
Thanage of
Elgin (Eilginn in Gaelic) lay
sixteen miles east and slighty north of Dyke; this, of course, was separate
from the royal burgh, which has probably now absorbed it.
Royal Burgh
of Elgin (Eilginn in Gaelic) was
chartered by David I.
See of
Elgin (Eilginn in Gaelic) was the
seat of the Diocese of Moray after 1216, after being at Spynie for ten
years. The diocese was established under
Alexander I in 1115. Prior to its previous
permanent location at Spynie, the see had alternated between Spynie, Birnie,
and Kinnedar. The Diocese of Moray covered
the province of Moray (the counties of Nairnshire, Foress-shire, and
Elginshire, with part of Inverness-shire) plus the district of Strathbogie. The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity was built
in the early 13th century.
Priory of
Urquhart (Urchard in Gaelic) was
a daughter house of the Abbey of Dunfermline established in 1136 by David I.
Thanage of
Kilmalemnock (Cill Mo Charmaig in Gaelic) lay about the ruins of a
church dedicated to St. Andrew just south of the hamlet of Kirkhill astride
River Lossie, which is just under three miles east of Elgin, and may have
included the hamlet as well, coextensive with the parish of St. Andrews.
The Aird
(An Aird in Gaelic) lies south of
Beauly Basin between River Ness to the east and River Beauly to the west. It is traditionally the home base of Clan
Fraser, who branched out to hold Strath
Farrar (Srath Farair) and Strath Errick (Srath Fhairgeag), the latter east of Loch Ness. However, it was originally created for John
Bisset, who later fled to Antrim where he became known as Iain mac Eoin nan
Gleann, patriarch of the MacKweons of the Glens of Antrim who married the
heiress of the MacDonlevys, the descendants of the western branch of the Dal
Riata dynasty.
Strathglass
(Srath Ghlais in Gaelic), formerly
known as Crom Ghleann, runs across Moray’s northwest border with Ross. Long home to Clan Chisholm, the district covers
Strath Glass, Glen Strathfarrar (Gleann
Srath Farair), Glen Cannich (Gleann Chanaich), Glen Grivie (Gleann Ghriobhaidh),
and Glen Affric (Gleann Afraic).
Urquhart
(Urchadan in Gaelic) runs along the
west side of Loch Ness and the Great Glen, centering on Glen Urquhart (Gleann
Urchadain) which hosts River Enrick to its mouth on Loch Ness, near which
is a point of land on the edge upon which sits Urquhart Castle.
Glenmoriston
(Gleann Moireasdan in Gaelic) south
of Urquhart along the River Moristion, spreading out from the western shore of
Loch Ness to the mountains in the west.
The district belonged to a cadet branch of Clan Grant, and included Glen Doe (Gleann Dotha) besides Glen
Moriston.
Glengarry
(Gleann Garadh in Gaelic) lies south
of Glenmoriston and upper Glen Affric, east of Glenshiel, Glenelg, Moidart, and
Knoydart, north of Lochaber, and west of Glenmore. Long home to Clan Donald of Glengarry, the
district included Glen Garry, Glen Kingie (Gleann
Cingidh), Glen Cluanie (Gleann
Cluanaidh), and Glen Loyne (Gleann Loinn). The
district is sometimes counted as part of Lochaber.
Glenmore
(Gleann Mor in Gaelic), also known as
Glenalbyn (Gleann Albainn) and more fully as the Great Glen of Albainn (Gleann
Mor na h-Albainn) is the great divide of the Highlands between the Grampian
Mountains and the Northwest Highlands.
It runs from Inverness on Moray Firth southwest to the head of Loch
Linnhe. From north to south it hosts
include River Ness, Loch Ness, River Oich, Loch Oich, Loch Lochy, River Lochy,
and Loch Linnhe. Not so much of a
district, per se, but a geographic feature that deserves special mention.
Lochaber
(Loch Abar in Gaelic), historically
occupies roughly 1200 sq. miles north of Loch and River Leven (i.e. of Argyll)
and Rannoch, east of Garmoran (as defined here), south of Glengarry and the
Monadhliadh Mountains, and west of Badenoch.
One of its earliest mentions in history is when it was given to William
Comyn by Alexander II as as part of Badenoch; his grandson was first to also
use the title Lord of Lochaber.
The dominant clan in Lochaber was Clan Cameron, holding
an area coextensive with the parish of Kilmallie
(Cill Mhailidh), their chief sections being Lochiel
(Loch Iall), Locharkaig
(Loch Airceig), Erracht (An t-Eireachd), Strone (An
t-Sron), Letterfinlay (Leitir Fhionnlaigh), Glen Nevis
(Gleann Muice), and Mamore (An Mam Mor). The major power in the other parish of
Lochaber, Kilmonivaig (Cill Mo Naomhaig), the MacDonalds of
Keppoch (Clan Ranald of Lochaber), occupied Glen Roy (Gleann Ruaidh)
and Glen Spean (Gleann Spithean).
Other important sections were Glen Pean (Gleann Peathain) and
Glen Dessary (Gleann Deasairidh).
Rannoch
(Raineach in Gaelic) is about 448
sq. miles with Lochaber to the northeast, Badenoch to the north, Blair Atholl
to the east, and Breadalbane to the south.
Its northern section is dominated by the Grampians and its western section
(from the head of Glen Coe to the west end of Loch Rannoch) by the desolate
Rannoch Moor (Mointeach Raineach).
The Braes of Rannoch (Braigh
Raithneach) lie at the western end of Loch Rannoch and Kinloch Rannoch (Ceann Loch Raineach) at its eastern head,
with the district of Foss to the east of that.
The northern shore of Loch Rannoch is An Slios Min and the
southern shore is An Slios Garbh, which contains the Black Wood of Rannoch (An Giuthsach).
Rannoch
Moor has Loch Ba, Loch Laidon, and Loch Eigheach; eastern Rannoch centers
around Loch Rannoch. Rannoch became a
refuge to MacGregors, Fletchers, MacIvers, etc., pushed out of their lands in
Argyll by the Campbells. After losing
Glenstrae in the 16th century, the chiefs relocated to Rannoch, where they and
their kin became known as Clann a’ Cheo, or Children of the Mist. The MacGregors did not go gently into that
good night.
Badenoch
(Baidenach in Gaelic) lies south of
the Monadhliath Mountains, west of the Cairngorms and Braemar, north of Atholl
and the Mounth, and east of Lochaber.
The first mention of Badenoch is when Alexander II made William Comyn Lord
of Badenoch (which then included Lochaber) in 1229. During the Wars of Independence, the Comyns
lost it to the Macphersons. Covering 540
sq. miles, the upper River Spey flows through it, and its chief lakes are Loch
Laggan and Loch Ericht.
Though they were never its lords, Badenoch was the
territory of the Macpherson wing of Clan Chattan. Some of its sections are: Glentruim
(Gleann Truim), Glentromie (Gleann Tromaidh),
Drumochter Forest, Gaich Forest, Badenoch Forest, Glenfeshie
(Gleann Feisidh), and Strathmashie (Srath Mhathaisidh), and the Loch
Rannoch (Loch Lagain) section of Strath Spey (Srath Spe),
base of the Macphersons.
Strathspey
(Srath Spe in Gaelic) is the valley
through which the River Spey flows toward Moray Firth. The district of Strathspey refers to the middle
valley left of the river from its from Badenoch to Grantown-on-Spey. This is the longtime home of the Clan Grant.
Schire of
Alvie (Albhaidh in Gaelic) lay
around Loch Alvie and its surrounding lands across River Spey from the thanage
of Rothiemurchus.
Thanage of Rothiemurchus
(Rata Mhurchais in Gaelic) lay on the
right bank (east side) of River Spey, across from Badenoch. It was home to the Shaws of Clan Chattan.
Abernethy
(Obar Neithich in Gaelic) was home to
the Braes of Abernethy (Braigh Obar Neithich) and the eponymous
royal burgh in the northern reaches of the district.
Thanage of Cromdale
(Crombail in Gaelic) lies between the
Cairngorms and River Spey on its east side from Rothiemurchus to a point north
of the town of Cromdale across from Grantown-on-Spey.
Thanage of
Rathenech (Rath Aonaich in
Gaelic) lay in the area now called Mosstodloch on the left bank (west side
here) of River Spey across from the Thanage (now village) of Fochabers, in the
former parish of Dipple (now united with Essil as Speymouth), with which it may
have been coextensive.
Thanage of
Fochabers (Fachabair in Gaelic) lay
on the right bank (east side here) of River Spey across from the Thanage of
Rathenech, coextensive with the parish of that name.
Thanage of
Molen was on the left bank of River Spey coextensive with the former parish
of Essil, now united with the former parish of Dipple as that of Speymouth.
Speyside (Fan Spe in Gaelic) is the district of
geographic Strath Spey below Grantown-on-Spey to its mouth on Moray Firth, home
to distilleries of some of the finest single-malts in Scotland.
Laich of
Moray (Machair Mhoireabh in
Gaelic) roughly corresponds to the later county of Moray/Elginshire, bordering
on the Firth of Moray, corresponding to the territory of the later Earldom of
Moray.
MORMAERDOM OF BUCHAN
Called Buchainn
in Gaelic, this province, though larger, was actually junior to its neighbor to
the south, Marr; both grew out of the former kingdom of Ce. When first mentioned in history, it was
governed by a mormaer. Its plain, which
covers nearly the whole province, was the most fruitful region of Scotland
after Machair Rois. Despite not sharing
terrain with the Highlands more conducive to breaking a region into small
districts, Buchan had quite a few, some very small.
Enzie (An Einnidh in Gaelic) lay between River
Spey and the town of Cullen along the seashore, south to Strathila and
Balvenie.
Royal Burgh
of Invercullen (Inbhir Chuileann
in Gaelic) was chartered by William the Lyon.
About 1300, the people moved inland to what is now Old Cullen.
Balvenie
(Baile Bhainidh in Gaelic) lay along
the lower River Aven from Mortlach district to the area just above the mouth of
the river, which was part of Enzie.
Abden of Mortlach
(Morthlach in Gaelic), between
Strathaven and Balvenie, took in what are now the parishes of Mortlach,
Cabrach, and Glass and was home to an abbey of St. Moluag. After a victory against the Norse here in
1010, Malcolm II chartered the second diocese of Scotland in thankgiving. In 1139, David I moved the see to
Aberdeen. While it existed, the see of
Mortlach was second in precedence only to St. Andrew’s. The original church at this place shares a
founder with the Abbey at Lismore, St. Moluag.
The district’s best known section is Glenfiddich (Gleann
Fhiodhaich), as which the district/parish is sometimes known.
Thanage of
Glenlivet (Gleann Liobhait in Gaelic) centered on the basin of River Livet,
taking up the southern portion of the parish on Inveravon.
Strathaven
(Srath Thamhainn in Gaelic) is the
narrow district along the upper River Aven, one valley over from Glen Livet.
Strathbogie
(Srath Bhalgaidh in Gaelic) lies
along the River Bogie, beginning at the town of Huntly, formerly named Strathbogie,
some 20 miles south of Cullen. Since the
time of Robert the Bruce, it was and is home to the Clan Gordon.
Strathila
(Srath Ile in Gaelic) was a small
district along River Isla northwest of Strathbogie, south of Boyne, west of
Balvenie, and east of Strathdeveron.
Thanage of
Netherdale (Srath Iochdarach in
Gaelic) took up the southern portion of the parish of Marnoch.
Thanage of
Aberchirder (Foggieloan in Gaelic
locally) took up the northern portion of the parish of Marnoch.
Thanage of Boyne
(Boinne in Gaelic) lay between Cullen
and Banff south to Strathila and Strathdeveron.
Strathdeveron
(Srath Dubh Eireann) was a
small, narrow district running east to west just south of Boyne and north of
Strathbogie.
Thanage of
Mumbrie (Monadh Blaraigh in
Gaelic), also called Mountblairy, was about seven and a half miles south of the
town of Banff and west of River Deveron.
Thanage of
Conventh (Coinmheadh in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Inverkeithny southeast of the thanage of
Netherdale.
Thanage of Fermartyn
(Fearann Mhartainn in Gaelic) stretched
from the thanage of Conventh southeast to the seacoast between Rivers Ythan and
Don. It was later divided into Fyvie and
Tolquhon.
Thanage of Belhelvie
(Baile Bhainidh in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the coastal parish of that name.
Thanage of Doune
(Dun in Gaelic), also called Glendowachy (Glenquithle in modern version),
lay just east of Boyne in the parish of Gamrie.
Abden of
Aberdour, the site of a Columban abbey founded by St. Drostan, who is
buried here, was coextensive with the later parish of New Aberdour in the
county of Aberdeenshire.
Abden of Turiff
(Baile Torraibh in Gaelic) was a
narrow district running north to south from Boyne and Strathdeveron, west of
Deer and east of Strathbogie, chiefly
known as home to Clan Hay. Until the
later 12th century, it was home to the abbey of St. Congan.
Abden of Old
Deer (Deir in Gaelic), the land
of an abbey founded by St. Drostan, took up the parish of Old Deer and was part
of the Muintir Cholmcille.
Abbey of
New Deer (Deir in Gaelic), a
daughter house of the Cistercian Abbey of Kinloss, occupied the parish of New
Deer then absorbed Old Deer.
Abden of
Cloveth (Clabha in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Cabrach and once home to a daughter house of the
abbey of Mortlach, also founded by St. Moluag.
Garioch
(Gairbheach in Gaelic) lies between Fermartyn
to the northeast and east, Marr on the south, and Strathbogie on the west and
northwest.
Strathdon
(Srath Deathain in Gaelic) lies west
of River Eicht and north of Rivers Isla and Tay, as a district covering the
area of the upper River Don mostly on the north side of the same, but crossing
to take in a small area south of the river.
MORMAERDOM OF MARR
Called Marr
in Gaelic, this province lay between River Don in the north and the Mounth and
River Avery in the south, including within it River Dee. When first mentioned, it was governed by a
mormaer. The chief of Clan Erskine has
been Earl of Mar since 1404. The
districts given here are universally recognized but geographic rather than
politico-cultural in nature. Marr as a
province is senior to Buchan and was almost certainly the core of the former
kingdom of Ce from which they both came.
Thanage of Aberdeen
(Obar Dheathain in Gaelic)
lay on the coast and included not only Old Aberdeen but the new city as well,
the entire coastal region between River Dee and River Don, i.e., the parishes
of Aberdeen, Old Machar, and New Machar.
Burgh of
Old Aberdeen (Obar Dheathain
in Gaelic), a non-royal burgh pre-existing the later royal burgh
established by the Bishop of Aberdeen; it received its charter as burgh of
barony in the 15th century.
See of
Aberdeen (Obar Dheathain in
Gaelic) was the seat of this region after moving here from Mortlach in
1132, where it had been some 120 years. In the move, the see lost its second place
status. The cathedral, see, and
university occupied most of Old Aberdeen.
The Diocese of Aberdeen covered the provinces of Buchan (minus
Strathbogie) and Marr. The Cathedral of St.
Mary and St. Machar was begun in 1357 to replace the earlier Cathedral of St.
Machar.
Royal Burgh
of (New) Aberdeen (Obar Dheathain in Gaelic), begun by David I, was chartered by William the
Lyon.
Thanage of
Kintore (Ceann Torr in Gaelic),
mostly south of River Don, occupied the parishes of Kintore, Kinkell, Kemnay,
Dyce, and Skene.
Royal Burgh
of Kintore (Ceann Torr in Gaelic)
was chartered by William the Lyon in 1190.
Midmarr
(Meadhan Mharr in Gaelic) lies
halfway between Aberdeen and Cromar, with its center halfway between River Don
and River Dee.
Thanage of
O’Neill (Ui Niall in Gaelic) was
roughly coextensive with the parish of Kincardine O’Neil (Cinn Chardainn) east of Aberdeen. Its chief town, also Kincardine O’Neil, was
formerly called Iarchadh’s Church (Eaglais Iarach).
Howe of Alford
(Athfort in Gaelic) is completely
enclosed by hills and mountains and extends south of the River Don, taking in
the parishes of Alford, Auchindor, Clatt, Glenbbucket, Keig, Kildrummy,
Kinnethmont, Lochell-cushnie, Rhynie, Essie, Strathdon, Tullynessle, and
several others.
Thanage of Birse
(Braois in Gaelic), aka The Birs, roughly coextensive with the parish
of Birse, lay south of River Dee and north of the Mounth between River Aven and
Mearns on the east and Allt Dinnie to the west.
Thanage of
Aboyne (A-Beidh in Gaelic),
roughly coextensive with the parish of Aboyne, lay just east of the thanage of
Birse.
Howe of Cromar
(Cro Marr in Gaelic) lies in a cove
north of River Dee enclosed between Tarland Burn and the district of Glen
Gairn.
Glentanar
(Gleann Tanar in Gaelic) lies south
of River Dee and west of Birse along River Tanar.
Glenmuick
(Gleann Muice in Gaelic) lies south
of River Dee and west of Glen Tanar along River Muick.
Glengirnock
(Gleann Goirneig in Gaelic) runs
north into River Dee a few miles west of Glen Muick.
Glengelder
(Gleann Ghealdair in Gaelic) hosts
Gelder Burn south of the River Dee a few miles west of Glen Gelder.
Glengairn
(Gleann Gharthain in Gaelic) lies west
of Cromar along the river of the same name, north of River Dee.
Strathdee
(Srath Dhe in Gaelic) straddles the
eponymous river west of Glens Gairn and Muick to the outskirts of Braemar,
roughly Gelder Burn on the south of River Dee and Feardar Burn on the north of
it.
Braemar
(Braigh Mharr in Gaelic), originally called
Ceann-an-drochardt, is the mountainous of district of Marr beyond Gelder Burn
and Feardar Burn.
Glenquioch
(Gleann Chuaich in Gaelic) lies west
of Braemar along Quioch Water.
Glenderry
(Gleann Doire in Gaelic) lies astride
Derry Burn until its confluence with Lui Water and Glen Lui.
Glenlui
(Gleann Laoigh in Gaelic) lies west
of Glenquoich along Lui Water.
Glendee
(Gleann De in Gaelic) extends from
River Dee’s confluence with Geldie Burn north to the river’s source in the
Cairngorm Mountains.
Abden of
Monymusk (Monadh Musga in Gaelic)
covered part of the parish of that name, possibly all of it and maybe even more,
and was that of a Culdee abbey founded in 1138.
MORMAERDOM OF MEARNS
Called A’ Mhaoirne in Gaelic and Magh Gheirghinn
in Old Irish, Mearns had its own Mormaer at least for a time, giving it the
status of province, though it is now usually considered a district of
Angus. It was roughly coextensive with
the former county of Kincardineshire, separated from county of Angus/Forfarshire
by the River North Esk.
Thanage of
Strachan (Strathaen in Gaelic)
was coextensive with the parish of that name except for the northeast corner. Its western section is taken up by Glen Dye.
Schire of
Gellan (Geal Ath in Gaelic)
occupied the northeast corner of the parish of Stratchan east of Feugh Water,
including Gellan Wood.
Thanage of
Durris (Duras in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name.
Thanage of
Cowie (Collaigh in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Fetteresso.
Thanage of
Uras was coextensive with the parish of Dunottar; now a small estate within
it.
Thanage of
Glenbervie (Gleann Biorbhaigh in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Thanage of
Arbuthnott (Obar Bhuadhnait in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Thanage of
Kincardine (Cinn Chardainn in
Gaelic) occupied all or most of the parish of Fordun.
Thanage of
Newdosk, once coextensive with the parish of that name, now occupies the
west side of the parish of Fettercairn.
Thanage of
Fettercairn (Fothair Chardainn in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the parish of that name, except for a small area
of its west side.
Thanage of
Aberluthnot was coextensive with the parish of Marykirk.
Abthanery
of Morfie was coextensive with the parish of St. Cyrus, formerly called
Ecclescraig, and was the site of a Culdee abbey.
Howe of
Mearns is that portion of Strathmore in the province.
MORMAERDOM OF ANGUS
Called Aonghas
in Gaelic and Oengus in Old Irish,
this province is one of the oldest known to have a mormaer. Angus was the greater part of the old kingdom
of Circinn that grew out of the Roman-era confederation around the Caledonii,
the remainder being Mearns, Gowrie, and Stormont. It was also the greater part of the county of
Forfarshire, which, indeed, later changed its name to Angus.
Thanage of
Kinnaber (Ceanneabar in Gaelic) occupied
the north section of the parish of Montrose.
Royal Burgh
of Montrose (Mon Rois in
Gaelic) founded by David I betwee 1130 and 1140, in the parish of that
name north of the River South Esk.
Thanage of Old Montrose (Alt Mon Rois in Gaelic) lay at the head of Montrose Basin
within the parish of Maryton, northwest of the abden which gave its name to the
parish. This is the same that later
became the seat of the Earls of Montrose.
Abden of Montrose (Mon Rois in Gaelic) occupied the Nether and Outer Maryton
sections of the parish of Maryton; i.e., the southeast corner of the main
division of the parish.
Abthanery
of Inverlunan (Inbhir Lunan in
Gaelic) occupied all or part of the parish of Lunan about the mouth of River
Lunan on Lunan Bay.
Thanage of Inverkeilor
(Inbhir Chiolair in Gaelic) was covered
most of the parish of that name.
Schire of
Alyth (Allaid in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Auchinglas which is now part of the parish of
Inverkeilor.
Schire of
Aberbrothock (Obar Bhrothaig in
Gaelic), later known as Arbroath,
comprehended the later parishes of Arbroath and St. Vigeans.
Abbey of
Arbroath (Obar Bhrothaig in
Gaelic) was a daughter house of Kelso Abbey of Tironensian monks founded in
1178 that became independent in 1197. It
was located, naturally, within the Schire of Abroath/Aberbrothock.
Abthanery
of Brechin (Breichin in Gaelic), based in the parish of Brechin, included
lands there and possibly small sections scattered throughout eastern
Angus. These lands had belonged to the
abbey of Culdees at Brechin.
See of
Brechin (Breichin in Gaelic) was established in 1153 for the Diocese of
Brechin, also known as the Diocese of Angus, under David I, its first prelate
being the Culdee abbot. The Culdees
continued until 1219, when they were replaced by Augustinian Canons Regular. The Diocese of Brechin took in the parishes
of Angus not belonging to the Sees of St. Andrews or Dunkeld. The Cathedral of St. Terranan built in the
12th century and still in use as a parish church.
Thanage of
Menmuir (Mon Mor in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name.
Thanage of Idvies
was coextensive with the parish of Kirkden.
Thanage of Tannadice
(Tanachais in Gaelic) was coextensive
with the parish of that name, except for the Kinalty section.
Thanage of
Kinalty (Cinn Allaidh in Gaelic)
occupied the Kinalty section of the parish of Tannadice.
Thanage of Aberlemno
(Obar Leamhnach in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the ancient parish of that name, into which the ancient parish
of Auldbar has been merged.
Thanage of
Forfar (Baile Fharfair in Gaelic)
occupied the parish of that name.
Royal Burgh
of Forfar (Baile Fharfair in
Gaelic) was chartered by David I.
Abthanery
of Restennet (Ros Teine in
Gaelic) represents the grounds of an earlier Celtic abbey on the site of the
later priory, whose tower still stands.
Priory of
Restennet (Ros Teine in Gaelic) was
a daughter house of the Abbey of Jedburgh built in 1153, undoubtedly in the
parish of that name which was formerly the abthanery.
Thanage of Downie
(Dunais in Gaelic) occupied the
southeast section of the parish of Monikie, including the Downie Muir.
Thanage of Clova
(Clabha in Gaelic) was coextensive
with the parish of Clova, which is now the western half of the parish of Clova
and Cortachy. It contains sections
Glenclova and Glenprosen in its northern reaches.
Abthanery
of Clova (Clabha in Gaelic) was
the land of an abbey founded by St. Moluag.
Thanage of Eassie
(Eas in Gaelic) was coextensive with
the parish of Eassie, which is now the northeast half of the parish of Eassie
and Nevay.
Thanage of Glamis
(Glamhus in Gaelic), made famous by
Shakespeare with his (fictional) attribution of it to the protagonist of the play
Macbeth, was coextensive with the parish
of that name.
Thanage of
Kingaltvy occupied the eastern section of the parish of Airlie.
Abthanery
of Airlie (Iarlaidh in Gaelic) took
up the western section of the parish of that name.
Thanage of Kettins was coextensive with the parish of Kettins.
Abthanery
of Edzell (Eigill in Gaelic) occupied most of the parish of Edzell,
having been the land of the abbey founded there by St. Drostan.
Schire of Kingoldrum (Cionn Coilldruim in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name.
Schire of
Dunnichen (Dun Eachainn was
Gaelic) was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Abthanery
of Kirkbuddo was the site of an early Celtic abbey
Schire of
Arbroath (Obar Bhrothaig in Gaelic)
was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Abbey of
Arbroath (Obar Bhrothaig in Gaelic)
was a house of the Tironensian Order founded there in 1178 in the schire of
that name.
Abthanery
of Kirkbuddo (Cill Buite in
Gaelic) was west of Arborath in or coextensive with the parish of that name.
Thanage of
Tealing was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Schire of
Ruthven (Ruadhainn in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name.
Abthanery
of Monifeith (Monadh
Feith in Gaelic) was within
or coextensive with the parish of that name.
Originally it was the lands of a Culdee abbey.
Schire of Dundee (Dun Deagh in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the later parish of that name.
Burgh of Dundee (Dun Deagh in Gaelic) chartered by
William the Lyon for his brother David, the later Earl of Huntingdon, it was
later chartered as a royal burgh by John Baliol in 1292.
The Braes
of Angus (Braigh Aonghais in
Gaelic) is the northern region of the province stretching across several
parishes in which lie the Glens of Angus. There are many smaller, such as Glen Quich,
Glen Uig, Glen Cally, Glen Danff, Glen Taitney, Glen Finlet, etc., which were
too small to be considered “districts”.
Glenesk
(Gleann Easg in Gaelic) is the valley
of River North Esk from its confluence with the Water of Effock flowing to the
east. Its tributary valleys include Glen
Tennet, Glen Mark, Glen Lee, and Glen Effock.
Glenlethnot
is the valley of Water of Saughs then the West Water. It was once famous for the same thing as the
mountains of East Tennesee, such as Rocky Top: moonshining.
Glenclova
(Gleann Chlabhaidh) hosts the upper River
South Esk.
Glenprosen
(Gleann Prasain) hosts Prosen Water,
which is tributary to River South Esk.
Glenisla
(Gleann Ile) occupies the valley of
upper River Isla before it enters Stormont and Gowrie as it exits the regions
of Braes.
Howe of
Angus (Srath Mor in Gaelic), also
known as the Howe of Glamis, is the
section in Angus of the Strathmore which stretches across eastern Scotland north
of the Sidlaw Hills.
Laich of
Angus (Machair Aonghais in Gaelic)
is the southern coastal district along the northern shore of the Firth of Tay,
south of the Sidlaw Hills and east of the Carse of Gowrie.
EARLDOM OF GOWRIE
Called Gobharaidh or in Gobharain Gaelic, this district was home to Scone, the
crowning place of the kings of Alba. It
is widely held that the name Gowrie originally derives from the Cineal nGabhrain,
who ruled Circinn by the time it became the ascendant kingdom of the
Picts. Gowrie lies between Stormont and
the Firth of Tay and between Angus and Strathearn. Of its territories, only Perth was west of
River Tay.
Abthanery of Melginch, also Megginch,
was coextensive with the parish of St. Martin’s, in which the Culdee abbey is
remembered in the section called Mains of Melginch.
Thanage of Longforgan (Forgann in Gaelic) was coextensive
with the former parish of that name which is now part of the parish of Fowlis
Easter and Longforgan.
Abthanery of Rossie (Ros nan Cleireach or Rosaidh
in Gaelic) in the parish of that name in the county of Fifeshire, now united
with the parish of Inchture, was home to a Celtic abbey.
Abthanery of Scone (Scuin in Gaelic) represents the
lands of the Culdee abbey, at least coextensive with the parish of that name if
not greater.
Abbey of Scone (Scuin in Gaelic) was an foundation
of Augustinian Canons Regular established by Alexander I in about 1120.
Thanage of Scone (Scuin in Gaelic), or Schire of Scone, probably fell within
the bounds of the Abthanery of
Scone.
Thanage of Coupar (Cubar in Gaelic), or Coupar Angus (Cubar Aonghais),
and its district originally lay in the northeast part of Gowrie. Boundaries later shifted, thus the
designation distinguishing it from the eponymous district and town in Fife.
Abbey of Coupar Angus (Cubar Aonghais in Gaelic) was a
daughter house of the Abbey of Melrose established in 1164 by Malcolm IV.
Schire of Perth (Peairt in Gaelic) gets its name
from a Roman fort established here in the first century named Bertha. It began life as St. Johnstowne, but the name
changed when it became a royal burgh.
The schire is on the west side of River Tay.
Royal Burgh of Perth (Peairt in Gaelic) was chartered by
David I and given status second only to Edinburgh.
Carse of Gowrie is the flatlands along the north shore of
the Firth of Tay west of the Laich of Angus.
Abthanery of Invergowrie (Inbhir Ghobharaidh in Gaelic) represents
the lands of the abbey of St. Boniface here in the Carse of Gowrie on the shore
of the Firth of Tay.
PROVINCE
OF STORMONT
Called Stair
Monadh in Gaelic, this province is often considered part of Gowrie,
especially since one of its districts is Blairgowrie and no evidence has yet
turned up that it ever had a mormaer, an earl, or the like, but it is in
several accounts listed as equal to those which have those. The province lies north of Rivers Isla and
Tay, west of River Ericht, east of River Tay, and south of the foothills of the
Mounth, excepting Kinclaven, which is west of River Ray. It contains a number of lakes, most
prominently Stormont Loch, Black Loch, White Loch, Fingask Loch, Ardblair Loch
(now drained), Marlee Loch, Loch of Cluny, Loch of the Lowes, Butterstone Loch,
Loch Benachally, Loch Ordie, and Loch
of Drumellie.
Thanage
of Kinclaven (Ceann Cliathain in Gaelic) lay in southern Stormont including
the confluence of Rivers Isla and Tay and lands along the west bank of River
Tay.
Thanage
of Alyth (Allaid in Gaelic) lay between River Isla on the east, just
below the point where the path of the streams breaks east, and River Ericht on
the west.
Abden
of
Dunkeld (Dun
Chaillean in Gaelic) became the seat of the Muintir Cholmcille in Alba and
of the primacy thereof in 878 when it was moved there (and to Kells in Ireland)
after too many attacks by Vikings. There
the primacy remained until being moved to Abernethy in the 11th century, when Dunkeld
was reduced to a dependency, then shuttered.
The lands later went to the see in the 12th or 13th century.
See of Dunkeld (Dun Chaillean in Gaelic) was
established by David I with Cormac, abbot of the Culdee house, as its first
bishop in 1127 under Alexander I. The
Cathedral of St. Columba was built the same year. Until 1200, the diocese took in everything
west to include (mainland) Argyll. The Diocese
of Dunkeld (minus Argyll) covered Atholl, Drumalbane, Stormont, parts of Angus,
Fife, Fothriff, and Strathearn, and some parishes south of Forth.
Abthanery of Blairgowrie (Blar Gobharaidh in Gaelic)
exists without record of the abbey that was there before, though various
charters exist of the abden, or abthain, and its lands being given to various
institutions and persons.
MORMAERDOM OF ATHOLL
Called Athall
in modern Gaelic and Athfodhla in Old Irish (“New Ireland”),
this province goes back to at least the mid-eight century, perhaps even the
late 6th century. Its first explicit
mention under this name, is in 739, when Oengus mac Fergus, king of Fortriu,
kills Talorgan ap Drostan, king of Atholl.
However, it may be the same kingdom called Aeron in some of the British
poems of the later 6th and early 7th centuries.
When the name appears again, it is under the rule of a mormaer. Until the time of Alexander I, the province
included the lands of Breadalbane, which then became part of the royal
demesne. At one time, it may have also
included the lands of Stormont and Gowrie.
Atholl is about 1290 sq. miles, with Badenoch to
the north, Braemar to the northeast, Angus to the east, Breadalbane to the south,
and Lochaber on the west and northwest.
The Grampians run through it, and Rivers Tay, Tummel, Garry, Tilt,
Bruar, and Braan water it. Its principle
lakes are Loch Rannoch and Loch Tummel.
Blair
Atholl (Blar Athaill) has always
been the capital of the province going back to its earliest times, but is in
size rather small as a district, including the town, Blair Castle (home to the
only legal private army in Europe), and their vicinity. It has been home to Clan Murray since 1629.
Struan
(Sruthan) is another small district,
several miles to the west of Blair Atholl at the confluence of River Garry and
Errochty Water, and has been home to Clan Donnachaidh, the Roberstons, since
the days of Robert the Bruce.
Thanage of Glentilt
(Gleann Teilt in Gaelic) is a narrow
district along River Tilt, whose name goes back to the days of the Picts. The river runs almost directly south from the
Mounth through Blair Atholl to its confluence with River Garry just beyond.
Glenbanvie
(Gleann Banvie in Gaelic) lies just west
of Glentilt, with Banvie Burn running through it southeast into River Garry on
the western edge of Blairgowrie.
Glenbruar
(Glean Bruthair in Gaelic) runs
almost directly north to south a few miles west of Glentilt and is noted for
its spectacular falls and their whirlpools.
Glengarry
(Gleann Gar in Gaelic) surrounds
River Garry which flows west to east from its source, Loch Garry.
Glenerrochty
(Gleann Eireachdaidh in Gaelic) lies
about Errochty Water, which flows west to east from Loch Errochty to its
confluence with River Garry.
Glenbrerachan
(Gleann Bhriathrachain in Gaelic)
lies about Brerachan Water, which flows from west to east through its glen,
confluencing with Fernate Burn flowing down from the northwest to form River
Ardle between Straloch and Tulloch.
Glenfernate
(Gleann Fearnaid in Gaelic) hosts
Fernate Burn, which flows southeast from the Mounth in the vicinity of Ben Gloe
to its confluence with River Ardle.
Thanage of Strathardle
(Srath Ardail in Gaelic) lies along the length of River
Ardle to its confluence with River Shee, after which the two become River
Ericht.
Abthanery
of Kilmichael (Cille Mhicheil in
Gaelic) lay within Strath Ardle and likely took up a good deal of it, at least
the modern parish of Kirkmichael.
Glenshee
(Gleann Sith in Gaelic) forms a
pathway for Shee Water as it tumbles down from the Cairngorms towards its
confluence with River Ardle to become River Erict. Glen Beg (Gleann Beag), Glen Talnich, and
Glen Lochy. Its name (‘sith’ in Gaelic
equals ‘sidhe’ in Irish) implies the valley is associated with fairies. As for human folk, Clan Thomas of Clan
Chattan had its home base and gathering ground here.
Glenericht (Gleann Eireachd in Gaelic) begins where Strath Ardle
and Glen Shee end, serving as River Ericht’s pathway until the latter reaches
the outskirts of Blairgowrie in Stormont.
The Clan Rattray had its home here for centuries.
Thanage of
Dalmarnock (Dail Mhearnaig in
Gaelic) lay within Strath Tay three and a half miles above Little Dunkeld.
Foss (Fasadh in Gaelic) occupies the area
between Loch Tummel to the east and Kinloch Rannoch on the west, and includes
the Braes of Foss. It was once part of the Appin of Dull.
Strathbraan
(Srath Freamhainn in Gaelic) lies
astride River Braan from Loch Freuchie to to its confluence with River Tay near
Little Dunkeld.
Thanage of
Fandowie lay south of River Braan, between Dullator and Trochry but north
of Glen Shee.
PROVINCE OF DRUMALBANE
Called Druim
Albainn in Gaelic, this region covers about 1,020 sq. miles between the
Brae Lyon Mountains in the north, Strathtay on the east, Strathearn on the
south, and Drumalban and the head of Glenorchy in the west. The region was not a province in the classic
sense, but it was a possession under this name of the Black Douglases at the
height of their power as late as the early part of the 15th century. Other usages, like for the title of a deanery
of the Diocese of Dunblane, explicitly use it meaning a region, as in the
Deanery of Atholl and Drumalbane, which other sources call the Deanery of
Atholl and Breadalbane. And it is in
that that we have our answer as to its location.
Originally, it fell within the bounds of the
province of Atholl, but by the reign of Alexander I nearly all of it was part
of the royal demesne. Its first appearance
under its other name, Breadalbane (Braid
Albainn in Gaelic), is in 1165, the first year of the reign of William the
Lyon, in the account of Andrew, Bishop of Caithness describing the divisions of
the kingdom. In describing the bounds of
a province clearly identical to Atholl, he uses the name Breadalbane in
reference to the north-south chain of mountains otherwise known as
Drumalbane.
The first known use of the name Breadalbane as a territory was when
Duncan Campbell, 7th Laird of Glenorchy, was made Laird of Breadalbane in
1583. It wasn’t until 1681 that John
Campbell, 5th Baronet of Glenorchy, 5th Laird of Breadalbane, Baron of
Glendochart, Bailiary of Discher, Toyer, and Glenlyon, and Keeper of the Forests
of Mamlorn, Bendaskerlie, Finglenbeg, and Finglenmore was made Earl of
Breadalbane.
Glenlyon
(Gleann Liomhann in Gaelic) is the
valley of River Lyon from its Loch Lyon headwaters to the western boundary of
the district of Fortingall. Many
displace MacGregors took refuge here after being driven from their homes in the
west, and after the crown granted the district to a Campbell as a lairdship,
these MacGregors were confined to the sections of Ferintosh and Roro. Glenlyon had been part of the Appin of Dull.
Discher
(Deisir in Gaelic) was the local name
for the north side of Loch Tay from its head in the west until Fortingall in
the east.
Thanage of Fortingall
(Fartairchil in Gaelic) lay astride
the lower River Lyon after it takes a nearly right angle turn south then takes
another to continue east. Drummond Hill
separates it from Loch Tay. This thanage
had been part of the Appin of Dull.
Thanage of
Crannich (Crannach in Gaelic) lay
between Tombreck Burn in the west and Lawers Burn in the east, from Loch Tay to
the summit of Ben Lawers, and also included the Tayside districts of Achmore
(near Killin) and Kinknock (Candknock, Kynknoc, now lost). This thanage had been part of the Appin of
Dull.
Toyer (Tuathair in Gaelic) was the local name for
the south side of Loch Tay from its head in the west to its foot in the east.
Forest of
Mamlorn was a huge royal forest between the headwaters of and upper Rivers
Lyon and Lochay. It was the biggest of
the known royal forests in Breadalbane; the others include Bendaskerlie,
Finglenbeg, and Finglenmore.
Glenlochay
(Gleann Lochaidh) runs along with
River Lochay from its headwaters in Lochan Chailean to its confluence with
Glen/River Dochardt just above/east of Loch Tay. The district was long home to Clan Naughton.
Abthanery
of Glendochart (Gleann Dochard)
included the valley of River Dochardt from Crianlarich to Killin, as well as Strathfillan (Srath Chinn Fhaolain), the valley of the River Fillan from its own
headwaters until it empties into Loch Dochardt.
Long the home of Clan MacNab, it was one of the largest and
longest-standing ecclesiatically-held districts, the chief of the MacNabs being
coarb of St. Fillan and abbot of Glendochardt.
Glenfalloch
(Gleann Falach in Gaelic) is an aptly
named glen lying southwest of Strathfillan astride River Falloch from its
headwaters to confluence with Lairg Arnan at Inverarnan.
Glenquaich
(Gleann Chuaich in Gaelic) is above
Loch Freuchie along River Quaich.
Appin of Dull (Dul in Gaelic) took in the thanages
of Dull, Fortingall, and Crannoch, the districts of Glenlyon and Foss, and
Strath Tay (Srath Tatha) at least as far as Little Dunkeld.
Thanage of Dull (Dul in Gaelic) lay within the Appin
of Dull, occupied the vicinity of the confluences of the Keltney Burn with
River Lyon and River Lyon with River Tay, the area now known as Strath of Appin, after the former Appin
of Dull.
MORMAERDOM OF STRATHEARN
Called Srath
Eireann in Gaelic and Ystrad Aeron
in Brythonic, this province lay between Atholl in the north and River Tay in
the east, including the area from the eastern edge of the Abden of Abernethy to
the western end of Balquhidder. It is
one of the provinces known to have been one of the early mormaerdoms, and may
have originally been part of the kingdom of Atholl.
Abthanery
of Abernethy (Obar Neithich in
Gaelic) was at least coextensive with the parish of Abernethy in the county of Perthshire
and probably extended much farther east.
The monks of the ancient abbey were of the Muintir Brigte. The primacy of the church moved to here from
Dunkeld before being removed again to St. Andrews in Fife.
Thanage of
Forteviot (Fothair Tabhaicht
in Gaelic) once hosted the palace of the early kings of Alba and is now
centered on the parish of the same name.
Thanage of
Dunning (Dunan in Gaelic)
centered on the village of the same name once home to a church founded by St.
Serf. The thanage covered at least the
territory of the parish of the name and probably much further.
Thanage of
Auchterarder (Uachdar Ardair
in Gaelic) was at least coextensive with the parish of the same name north of
the Ochill Hills.
Gleneagles
(Gleann na h-Eaglais) is a valley
cutting into the west side of the Ochill Hills, linking up with Glen
Devon. It later gave its name to the
barony of the Haldanes, but was already a thickly inhabited district before
that. Its names derives from an ancient
church here founded by St. Madoc.
Glendevon
(Gleann Duibhne in Gaelic) is a
valley cutting into the east side of the Ochill Hills, linking up with Glen
Eagles.
Abden of Dunblane (Dun Bhlathain in Gaelic) was the land of
a Muintir Cholmcille abbey established by St. Blane that later also hosted a Culdee
component. The abbey eventually shut
down, and the lands ended up as part of the Diocese of Dunblane, which took in
all of Strathearn and parts of Menteith and Atholl. The abden covered at least the parish of the
name.
See of
Dunblane (Dun Bhlathain in
Gaelic), established in 1140 by David I, served as the seat of the Diocese of
Dunblane, also known as the Diocese of Strathearn. The latter name is most descriptive since the
diocese covered almost the entirety of that province. The Cathedral
of St. Blane and St. Laurence was built and a chapter of Dominican
friars took over in 1233.
Strathallan
(Srath Alain in Gaelic) was a large
district formed by the valley of the Allan Water flowing west of the Ochill
Hills south into River Teith from its headwaters south of Auchterarder.
Thanage of
Methven (Meadhainnigh in
Gaelic) was more or less coextensive with the parish of Methven.
Abthanery
of Madderty was at least coextensive with the parish of Madderty, probably
the site of a Columban house.
Priory of
Inchaffray (Innis Aifrinn in
Gaelic) of Augustinian Canons Regular on the site of the earlier Celtic abbey
of Madderty began about 1200 as a daughter house of the Abbey of Scone.
Abden of
Muthill (Maothail in Gaelic),
site of a Culdee abbey founded around 1178, was coextensive with the parish of
Muthill.
Nether Stormont (Stair Monadh Iochdarach in Gaelic) lies east and south of River Tay, north of
Glenalmond and west of Strath Braan.
Essentially it is that portion of Strathmore which lies west of River
Tay, except the portion of the thanage of Kinclaven on that side of the river.
Glenalmond (Gleann Amain in Gaelic) is the valley of the River
Almond. Its upper reaches are narrow,
but it widens lower down.
Glenturret (Gleann Turraid in Gaelic) is the valley of Turret Water south
of Glen Almond.
Glenlednock (Gleann Liadnaig in Gaelic) is the
valley of River Lednock south of Glen Turret.
Thanage of
Strowan (Sruthan in Gaelic) corresponds
to that portion of the parish of Monzievaird and Strowan that lies south of
River Earn and north of the parish of Muthill, between Glenartney and the parish
of Crieff.
Glenartney (Gleann Artanaig in Gaelic) is the valley of the Artney and
Ruchill Waters which flow north into River Earn in the parish of Comrie.
Abden of Achtow lay in the Balquhidder lands of Auchtoo and
Auchtubh between Loch Voil and Loch Earn north of River Voil just before it
takes a hard south turn. This is the
house over which Laurence, progenitor of Clan Laren, a cadet branch of the
House of Lennox, was abbot.
Balquhidder
(Both Chuidir in Gaelic) at the
western extremity of the province centers on the valley west of Loch Earn, and
includes Lochearnhead, Loch Doine, Loch Voil, Glen Ogle, Glen Buckie, the Braes
of Balquhidder, and Strath Yre north of Loch Lubhnaig. The head of its valley almost meets that og
Glen Gyle. This district is best known
as the home of Rob Roy MacGregor.
MORMAERDOM OF FIFE
Called Fiobh
in Gaelic, Fife is one of the best known provinces in Scotland due to
Skakespeare and his tragedy Macbeth. Its mormaer was often a member of the royal
derbhine, then it became hereditary in the Clan Duff. Its territory included the parishes of Abdie,
Collesie, Cupar, Ceres, Scconie, Kenneway, and those of Fife to the east.
Schire of Forgan (Forgrann in Gaelic) was coextensive
the parish of that name.
Thanage of
Kinneir (Cinn Iar in Gaelic) lay
within the parish of Kilmany.
Schire of Rathilet (Rath Uladh in Gaelic) lay within
the parish of Kilmany.
Thanage of
Dairsie was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Schire of
Cupar (Cubar in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name.
Schire of Kinrymont (Cenn
Rigmonaid in Gaelic) took up the parish of Cameron and the western half of
the parish of St. Andrews. The first
name for the area was Muckross (Mucrois), which became
Kinrymont (Cenn Rigmonaid) when the Culdee abbey was founded, then
Kilrymont (Cill Rigmonaid) after the cenobites organized St. Mary’s.
Abbey of Kinrymont (Cenn Rigmonaid in Gaelic) was
founded by St. Regulus in the mid-8th century on land given Oengus I mac
Fergus, king of Fortrenn and ruler of the north. After the see moved here from
Abernethy in 906, its Culdee monks became its staff. When the Augustinian priory was established
in 1140, the Culdees operated jointly with the newcomers until 1246 when they
got their own provostry (collegiate church), St. Mary’s of the Culdees, also
known as St. Mary’s of the Rock. Members
of its college were referred to as Culdees until it ended in the Scottish
Reformation.
See of St.
Andrews (Cill Rimhinn in Gaelic) was
for a time the only see in the north after
the primacy of Alba moved here from Abernethy about 906. The name of the see changed from Kinrymont to
St. Andrews in about the year 1117. Initially
its staff was filled by Culdees from the nearby abbey of Kinrymont, then by the
Culdees and the Augustinians jointly until 1246, when the Cathedral of St.
Andrew was built and fell to the Augustinians along. Always the prime see of Scotland, it became a
metropolitan see in 1472 and its ordinary an archbishop.
The Diocese
of St. Andrews covered Fothriff, Fife, Gowrie, Angus (between Rivers Tay, Isla,
and North Esk), and Mearns (between Rivers North Esk and Dee), and what would
later be the counties of Stirling (in its original version), Linlithgow,
Edinburgh, Haddington, and Berwick, including parts of The Merse in the county
of Roxburgh.
Priory of St. Andrew (Cill
Rimhinn in Gaelic) was a house of
Augustinian Canons Regular established in 1140 to provide staff for the growing
needs of the cathedral. It operated the see
jointly with the Culdees until 1246, when the cahtedral was built and the
latter received their own provostry.
Burgh of
St. Andrews (Cill Rimhinn in
Gaelic) was chartered by Bishop Robert around 1140.
Schire of
Gelland, now wholly absorbed into the parish of St. Andrews, became the
now-extinct baronies of Wester and Easter Gellat.
Abthanery of Kinkell (Ceann na Coille in Gaelic) lay east
of Kinrymont and now lies within the eastern part of the parish of St. Andrews,
possibly including part of the parish of Cameron.
Schire of
Crail (Caraile in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Crail and Kingsbarns.
Royal Burgh
of Crail was most likely chartered by Malcolm IV.
Schire of
Rires was coextensive with the parishes of Kilconquhar and Elie.
Schire of
Newburn was coextensive with the later parish of that name.
Schire of Blathbog was coextensive with the Blebo section of the
parish of Kemback.
Schire of
Kinninmonth was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Schire of
Strathmiglo (Srath Mioglach in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Thanage of
Kellie was coextensive with the parish of Cairnbee.
Schire of
Kennoway was coextensive with the parish of that name.
Schire of
Scoonie was coextensive with the parish of that name
Schire of
Strathleven (Srath Liobhan in Gaelic)
was coextensive with the parish now called Markinch.
Schire of Kirkcaldy (Cill Celi De in Gaelic) was coextensive with the parishes of
Kirkcaldy and Abbotshall.
Abden of Lindores (Linn Dubhros in Gaelic) was the lands of a Culdee
establishment that later became part of those of a Tironensian abbey
founded by David, Earl of Huntingdon, in either 1178 or 1191 . The lands covered the parishes of Abdie and
Newburgh.
Abbey of Lindores was a Tironensian daughter house of the Abbey
of Kelso founded by David, Earl of Huntingdon, in 1191. It either absorbed the remaining Culdees or
else took over their abandoned lands.
EARLDOM OF FOTHRIFF
Called (possibly) Foth Ruighean in Gaelic, this province took in in the counties of Culross-shire,
Kinross-shire, Clackmannanshire, the Perth parish of Muckart, and the Fife
parishes of Kettle, Cults, Auchtermuchty, Markinch, Weems, and the rest to the
west. Though it is ancient enough to
have had a mormaer, in the earliest mention it has the Earl of Forthreve.
Abden of Kilgour
(Coille Gobhar in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Falkland, with its eastern portion becoming the
Thanage of Falkland.
Thanage of
Falkland (Falclann in Gaelic) occupied
the eastern portion of the parish of that name, formerly known as the parish of
Kilgour.
Schire of
Gaitmilk was coextensive with the parish of Kinglassie.
Thanage of
Kingskettle was coextensive with the parish of Kettle, formerly known as
Lathrisk.
Abthanery
of Kinghorn (Cinn Gronn in
Gaelic) spread across the parishes of Kinghorn and Burntisland.
Royal Burgh
of Kinghorn (Cinn Gronn in
Gaelic) was chartered by William the Lyon between 1165 and 1172.
Thanage of
Fordell took in part of all of the parish of Dalgety.
Thanage of Kinross
(Cinn Rois in Gaelic) was coextensive
with the parishes of Kinross and Orwell.
Schire of Culross (Cuileann Ros in Gaelic) was took in the parishes
of Culross and Tulliallan.
Abthanery of
Culross (Cuileann Ros in
Gaelic) was the land of the abbey here founded by St. Serf, a daughter house of
the one on St. Serf’s Inch.
Abbey of
Culross (Cuileann Ros in
Gaelic) was established in 1217 by Malcolm I, Earl of Fife, and founded by Benedictine
monks from the Abbey of Kinloss in Moray.
Schire of Loquhar
(Loch Odhar in Gaelic), or Lochore, took in the parishes of
Ballingry and Auchterderran.
Abden of Lochleven
(Loch Liobhan in Gaelic) included the island in Loch Leven and the abbey lands
along the shore in the Schire of Bishop.
Priory of
St. Serf’s Inch (Innis Serbhainn in
Gaelic) was founded by David I in 1150 for the Augustinian Canons Regular from
St. Andrews who absorbed the remaining Culdees at the old establishment. It later moved to Portmoak.
Schire of
Bishop centered on the parish of Portmoak but included scattered detached
lands.
Schire of Clackmannan
(Clach Mhanainn in Gaelic) covered
most of the later county of Clackmanannshire (minus the parish of Dollar).
Schire of Dollar
(Dolar in Gaelic), also spelled Dolor, was coextensive with the parish
of Dollar in the county of Clackmannanshire.
Schire of Dunfermline
(Dun Pharlain in Gaelic) covered the later
parishes of Dunfermline, Carnock, and Inverkeithing, plus Rosyth, which later
merged with Inverkeithing.
Abbey of
Dunfermline (Dun Pharlain in
Gaelic) was founded about 1070 by monks of the Order of St. Benedict, and
eventually absorbed the Culdees of the previous foundation.
Royal Burgh
of Dunfermline (Dun Pharlain in
Gaelic) was chartered by David I 1128 and later transferred to the authority of
tha Abbot of Dunfermline. The burgh
served as the capital of Scotland until 1437.
Royal Burgh
of Inverkeithing (Inbhir Cheitinn
in Gaelic) was charted by David I.
Schire of
Wemyss (Uaimnh in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of Wemyss.
Priory of
Inchcolm (Innis Choluim in
Gaelic) was a house of Augustinian Canons Regular that became an abbey in 1235.
Priory of
the Isle of May (Eilean Mhaigh in
Gaelic) was a house of Benedictine monks established in 1153 by David I.
EARLDOM OF MENTEITH
Called Moneteadhaich
in Gaelic, this province covered everything between River Teith in the north
and River Forth in the south, from Glengyle in the west to the confluence of
the two rivers in the east, the parishes of Kilmadock, Lecropt, Dunblane, Logie
and part of Callender north of the Teith, and the parish of Kippen south of the
Forth. The early earls also had
jurisdiction in Cowall and Kintyre, according to one statute of William the
Lyon. Although many claim the province
was born as a mormaerdom at a time when those were first being created, the
best information says that the earldom was created and first granted to Gilchrist
in 1163.
EARLDOM OF LOTHIAN
Called Lodainn
in Gaelic, Lothian remained under control of the Anglo-Saxon kings and earls of
Bernicia and Northumbria for centuries.
Roughly, this meant the counties of Stirlingshire, the Lothians, and Berwickshire. In 927, Edgar the Peaceful, King of the
English, granted a territory called Lothian—consisting of eastern
Stirlingshire, West and Mid Lothian, and the western portion of East Lothian—as
a fief to Kenneth II. In 1018, Malcolm III
gained the remainder of the south to River Tweed following the Battle of
Carham, secured by treaty in 1020.
In 1072, Edgar the Aetheling fled to Scotland,
bringing in his train one Gospatric, just deposed from the position of Earl of
Northumbria. Malcolm III granted
Gospatric most of the land from the Schire of Dunbar south. He and his first two successors used the
title Earl of Lothian; the next four used Earl of Dunbar; the next two Earl of
March; and the last two used Earl of Dunbar and March. The territory was quite substantial, including
the Schire of Dunbar, Innerwick, Oldhamstocks, Cockburnspath, and The Merse. After they foreited in 1457 and it was
regranted to the Duke of Albany, the Earldom of March was limited to The Merse.
Barony of
Gargunnock (Garbh Cuinneag in
Gaelic) lay in the south of the parish of Gargunnock from the hills of that
name to River Forth in the county of Stirlingshire.
Barony of
Leckie (Leacaidh in Gaelic) ran parallel with Boquhan in the west
of the parish of Gargunnock in the county of Stirlingshire.
Barony of
Boquhan ran parallel with Leckie in the west of the parish of Gargunnock in
the county of Stirlingshire.
Barony of
Meiklewood occupied the northeast corner of the parish of Gargunnock in the
county of Stirlingshire.
Thanage of
Stirling (Sruighlea in Gaelic) encompassed
the parishes of Stirling, Logie, Airth, and Eaglais (now St. Ninian’s) in the
county of Stirlingshire.
Royal Burgh
of Stirling (Sruighlea in Gaelic)
was chartered by David I.
Barony of
Halbertshire, later called Herbertshire, took up part of the parish of
Dunipace, which originally bore its name, in the county of Stirlingshire
Barony of
Dunipace took up part of the parish of Halbertshire in the county of
Stirlingshire, which is now known by the name of this barony.
Barony of
Torwood took up part of the parish of Larbert in the county of
Stirlingshire, including the royal forest of Tor Wood.
Barony of
Larbert took up most of the parish of the same name in the county of
Stirlingshire.
Abbey of
Cambuskenneth (Camas Cinaeid or Camas Ceneil in Gaelic( was a house of
Augustinian Canons Regular founded by David I in 1140 whose lands became the
parish of the same name.
Abden of Falkirk ((Eglais Bhris in Gaelic) were the
lands of the abbey of St. Modan in the WNW of the current parish of Falkirk in
the county of Stirlingshire. The town of
Falkirk once known as Ecclesbrae.
Thanage of
Callander (Calasraid in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the original parish of Falkirk, which included the current
parish of that name (Falkirk) plus those of Denny, Bothkennar, Polmont (whose
later barony was called Abbotskerse), and Muiravonside in the county of
Stirlingshire. Later transformed into a
barony, it was often called the Barony of Falkirk and Callander to avoid
confusion with the Barony of Callander in Perthshire.
Priory of
Manuel was a house of Cistercian nuns established in 1156 by Malcolm IV.
Barony of Slamannan (Sliabh Mhanainn in Gaelic) was coextensive with the original parish of that name in the county of
Stirlingshire, comprising that part of the current parish south of River Avon
(which presumably extended its boundary with that of the barony.
Schire of
Linlithgow (Gleann Iucha in
Gaelic) was more or less coextensive with the parishes of Linlithgow and
Ecclesmachen in Mid Lothian, territory which later included the Barony of
Binning in the eastern section of the parish of Linlithgow.
Royal Burgh
of Linlithgow (Gleann Iucha in
Gaelic) was chartered by David I around 1130.
Barony of
Kinneil (Ceann an Fhail in Gaelic),
coextensive with the parish of Borrowtounness in Mid Lothian which once shared
its name, was granted to Herbert, Chamberlain of Scotland, by David I.
Barony of
Carriden (Cair Eideann in Gaelic),
coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian was granted by Malcolm
IV to William de Vipont about 1165.
Abden of
Abercorn (Obar Chuirnidh in
Gaelic) was roughly equivalent to the lands of the Celtic abbey at Abercorn
about 650 as a daughter house of Lindisfarne, when the region fell within the
kingdom of Northumbria. St. Wilfrid
established his see here in 681 as bishop to the southern Picts, but had to
flee after the Battle of Dunnichen in 685.
Barony of
Abercorn (Obar Chuirnidh in
Gaelic), coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian, was first
granted to Robert de Avenel by David I.
Barony of Aldcathie
was coextensive with the former parish of that name in Mid Lothian, now the detached
western section of the parish of Dalmeny.
Barony of
Dalmeny (Dun Mheinidh in Gaelic) lay
within the original parish of that name in Mid Lothian, which did not then include
the lands of the former parish of Aldcathie.
Barony of Barnbougle
lay within the original parish of Dalmeny in Mid Lothian.
Preceptory
of Torphichen, coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian, was
given by David I to the Knights Hospitaller for their Scottish headquarters.
Barony of
Bathgate was coextensive with the parish of Bathgate in Mid Lothian.
Barony of
Livingstone (Baile Leibhinn in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the original parish of Livingstone in Mid Lothian,
which then included the later parish of Whitburn.
Barony of
Strathbrock was coextensive with the parish of Uphall in Mid Lothian.
Preceptory
of Liston occupied most or all of the parish of Kirkliston in Mid Lothian,
originally known as just Liston but came to be called Temple Liston.
Lordship of
Calder anciently comprehended the parishes of West Calder, Mid Calder, East
Calder, and Kirknewton in Mid Lothian and Cadder in the county of Lanarkshire. Calder was later divided into the Barony of
Calder Comitis and the Barony of Calder Clere in Mid Lothian and the Barony of
Cadder in Lanarkshire.
Abthanery
of Ratho (Rathach in
Gaelic) was roughly equivalent to the parish of that name. It is the only territory of in the south
defined specifically as an abthanery, which fact is the sole witness to an
abbey of the Celtic or Culdee variety having existed as this place. The territory later became a barony.
Lordship of
Killeith was coextensive with the later parish of Currie in Mid Lothian.
Schire of
Edinburgh (Dun Eideann in Gaelic)
took in the current parishes of Edinburgh, Herbergare (Canongate), St.
Cuthbert’s (including the parishes of Corstrophine and Liberton), Gogar (now
part of Corstrophine), and Cramond in Mid Lothian.
Royal Burgh
of Edinburgh (Dun Eideann in
Gaelic) was chartered by David I.
Abbey of
Holyrood was founded in 1128 by David I for the Augustine Canons Regular,
and possessed the lands of Herbergare (now Canongate), North Leith, South
Leith, and Hailes in Mid Lothian.
Burgh of
Canongate was chartered by the Abbey of Holyrood in the 12th century.
Barony of
Hailes, coextensive with the parish of Colinton
in Mid Lothian, was given by David I to the Abbey of Dunfermline, but latter
passed to the Abbey of Holyrood.
Barony of
Lestalrig lay between the parishes of Duddington and Leith in Mid Lothian.
Barony of
Duddington, coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian, was
owned by the Abbey of Kelso, but leased out, at first to a Flemish knight named
Dodin.
Schire of
Musselburgh was coextensive with the later parish of Inveresk in Mid
Lothian, and early on became the Barony of Musselburghshire owned by the Abbey
of Holyrood.
Barony of Newton,
which took up the eastern two-thirds of the parish of that name in Mid Lothian,
belonged to the Abbey of Dunfermline as part of its Barony of Musselburghshire.
Barony of Wymet,
now the western part of the parish of Newton in Mid Lothian, also belonged to
the Abbey of Dunfermline as part of its Barony of Musselburghshire.
Lordship of
Dalkeith (Dail Cheith in Gaelic),
taking up much of the current parish of that name in Mid Lothian, was granted
by David I to William de Graham in the 12th century.
Barony of
Lasswade was coextensive with the original parish of that name in Mid
Lothian, much smaller than the current parish which now includes as well the
former parishes of Melville, Pentland, and Roslin. The barony was a possession of the See of St.
Andrews.
Lordship of
Melville was coextensive with the medieval parish of Melville in Mid
Lothian, which is now extinguished. The
lordship was later divided into baronies of Melville and Lugton. The latter of these was attached to the
parish of Dalkeith after the dissolution of the parish of Melville, with the
barony of that name adjoined to the parish of Lasswade.
Barony of
Pentland occupied the northern section of the former parish of that name in
Mid Lothian. With the dissolution of the
parish after the Reformation, the barony merged with the parish of Lasswade.
Barony of
Fulford occupied the southern section of the former parish of Pentland in
Mid Lothian. With the dissolution of the
parish after the Reformation, the barony merged with a portion of the parish of
Penicuik to become the parish of Glencross (St. Catherine’s).
Lordship of
Roslin was the first possession of the Sinclairs in Scotland, granted in
1068 by Malcolm III, which later became a feudal barony now in the southeast
section of the parish of Penicuik in Mid Lothian. In the 15th century, the caput of the barony
became home to the famous Rosslyn Chapel.
Barony of
Penicok was coextensive with the parish of Penicuik in Mid Lothian, then
including the parish of Glencorse/Glencross, once a chapel called St.
Catherine’s of the Hopes.
Barony of Mt.
Lothian, coextensive with the former parish of the name in Mid Lothian now
united with Penicuik, was a possession of the Abbey of Newbottle on Upper River
South Esk.
Barony of Crighton
included the parish of that name and that of Borthwick (formerly called
Locherworth), in Mid Lothian.
Barony of
Cramond, coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian, was split
between Robert Avenel, who gave his half to the See of Dunkeld, and the royal
demesne, so that the two halves were known as Bishop’s Cramond and King’s Cramond.
Barony of
Carrington was coextensive with the parish of the name in Mid Lothian.
Barony of
Dalhousie was coextensive with the parish of Cockpen in Mid Lothian.
Abbey of
Newbottle, founded in 1140 by Cisterican monks from the Abbey of Melrose,
owned the barony of Newbottle, which took up most of the parish of that name in
Mid Lothian. In addition to several of
the baronies which follow, the chapter came to own the barony that became known
as Monkland (now two parishes) in the county Renfrewshir.e
Barony of Maisterton
was coextensive with the former parish of that name in Mid Lothian which is now
part of the parish of Newbottle.
Barony of
Upper Cranston, also called New Cranston, took up part of the parish of
Cranston in Mid Lothian.
Barony of
Nether Cranston, also called Cranston Ridel, took up part of the parish of
Cranston in Mid Lothian.
Preceptory
of Balantrodach, coextensive with the chapelry of that name in Mid Lothian
now in the later parish of Temple (the chapelry of Muirfut) in Mid Lothian, was
given by David I to the Knights Templar for their Scottish headquarters.
Barony of
Clerkingtoun was coextensive with the former parish of that name in Mid
Lothian, now in the parish of Temple.
Barony of
Moorfoot was coextensive with the former chapelry of the name in Mid
Lothian, now part of the parish of Temple.
The barony belonged to the Abbey of Newbottle.
Barony of Heriot,
coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian, joined the territories
of the Abbey of Newbottle in the 14th century.
Barony of Wedale,
which included the parish now called Stow
in Mid Lothian but was much larger, belonged to the Cathedral of St. Andrews. It was the valley of Gala Water.
Barony of
Foula was coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian that is
now part of the parish of Foula and Soutra.
Barony of
Soutra was coextensive with the parish of that name in Mid Lothian that is
now part of the parish of Foula and Soutra.
Lordship of
Keith, originally granted to Marbhachair
Chamuis by Malcolm II, was coextensive with the parish of that name in
East Lothian, which later changed to Humbie.
The territory was divided into two lordships granted by David I in the
12th century: Keith Hervie in the
northwest to Hervey de Keith, progenitor of Clan Keith, and Keith Hundeby in
the southeast granted to Simon Fraser.
Barony of Tranent
took up most of the western two-thirds of the parish of that name in East
Lothian along with a portion of the later parish of Glasmuir.
Barony of
Preston lay within the later parish of Prestonpans in East Lothian, then
part of the parish of Tranent.
Barony of
Prestongrange lay within the later parish of Prestonpans in East Lothian,
then part of the parish of Tranent.
Lordship of
Seton occupied the northwest section of the parish of Tranent in East
Lothian.
Lordship of
Pencaitland was more or less coextensive with the parish of the name in
East Lothian.
Lordship of
Salton, coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian, was
granted to Hugh de Moreville by David I.
Lordship of
Ormiston was coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian.
Barony of Bolton,
coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian, was granted to James
de St. Hilary by David I.
Barony of Yester,
coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian, was granted to Hugh
de Giffard by David I.
Lordship of
Morham was coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian.
Abthanery of Kilspindie was the land of the Culdee abbey near the
later town of Aberlady within the parish of the same.
Barony of Aberlady,
coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian, was given by David I
to the See of Dunkeld when he reestablished it in the 12th century.
Lordship of
Eldbottle, granted to John de Vaux in the mid-12th century, was coextensive
with the medieval parishes of Gullane and Dirleton which are now united.
Thanage of
Haddington occupied the parishes of Haddington, Athelstansford, Garvald,
Baro, Yester, and (most of) Gladsmuir in East Lothian, and at one time probably
Bolton and Morham.
Burgh of
Haddington was chartered by David I but transferred to Ada de Warenne,
Countess of Nurthumberland, wife of his son Henry, who died a year before him.
Abbey of
Haddington, a house of Ciestercian nuns, was founded in the 12th century by
Ada de Warenne, wife of Henry mac David, Earl of Huntingdon and Earl of
Northumberland. Its lands became known
as Nunraw.
Barony of North
Berwick, coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian, belonged
to the Mormaers and later Earls of Fife.
Priory of
North Berwick was a house of Cistercian nuns established by Duncan I, Earl
of Fife, in 1150.
St. Baldred’s
Land is not a historical designation, but my term here for the four
contiguous medieval parishes in East Lothian, three now united, which each had
a church dedicated to St. Baldred, a Northumbrian missionary in the 7th century
known as the Apostle to the Lothians.
Together, they probably at one time formed a cohesive unit.
Schire of
Tyninghame was coextensive with the parish of the same name in East Lothian,
which was probably home to the abbey and is now united with Whitekirk.
Schire of
Hamer was coextensive with the medieval parish of that name in East
Lothian, later renamed Whitekirk; it now contains also Tyninghame and Aldham.
Schire of
Aldham was coextensive with the medieval parish of that name in East
Lothian which was absorbed into the parish of Tyninghame before it was united
with that of Whitekirk.
Schire of
Linton was coextensive with the medieval parish of that name in East
Lothian, later called Haugh, then Prestonhaugh, and currently Prestonkirk, and
is the only one of the St. Baldred parishes not united with the others.
Schire of
Dunbar (Dun Barra in Gaelic), a
major portion of the territory of the Earls of Dunbar, took in the current parishes
of Dunbar, Sport, Stenton, and Whittinghame in the county of East Lothian.
Lordship of
Innerwick, coextensive with the parish of that name in East Lothian, was
the first territory granted by David I to Walter Fitz-Alan, High Steward of
Scotland.
Lordship of
Oldhamstocks, originally part of the territory of the Earls of Dunbar,
occupied the northern section of the parish of that name in East Lothian until
being absorbed into the lordship of Dunglass to the south.
Lordship of
Dunglass, originally part of the territory of the Earls of Dunbar, at first
took up the southern section of the parish of Oldhamstocks in East Lothian,
then absorbed the barony of that name and so spread over the whole parish.
Lordship of
Cockburnspath occupied the western part of the current parish of
Cocksburnpath in East Lothian and was part of the territory of the Earls of
Dunbar.
Schire of
Coldingham took in the contiguous parishes of Coldingham, Eyemouth, Ayton, the
former parish of Old Cambus (now eastern Cockburnspath), and parts of
Mordington, Foulden, Chirnside, and Bunkle in the county of Berwickshire. Had the territory been in the north, it would
have been termed an abthanery, because in the Early Middle Ages, Coldingham was
home to an ancient dual abbey of the type known as a conhospitae, meaning monks and nuns at the same house under one
government.
Founded by St. Ebb in the mid-7th century as its
first abbess, the abbey had St.Cuthbert as its first instructor. Ecclesiastically, it came under the See of
Lindisfarne, then of Northumbria, like all the southeast. It was destroyed in a Viking attack in 870. Edgar I granted the entire shire to the See
of Durham in 1098. The Benedictine
Priory of Coldingham was founded shortly after, at first dependent on Durham
then on the Abbey of Dunfermline. The entire
schire became a barony with the prior at its lord, though some of this was
later split off.
Priory of
Coldingham was a house of Benedictine monks dependent the Abbey of Durham
that was founded in 1145 upon land in the parish of Coldingham given by Edgar
of Alba in 1098.
Lordship of
Swinton, coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Berwickshire, was granted to Edulf de Swinton by Malcolm III.
The Merse,
the largest portion of the territory of the Earls of Dunbar, took in the
current parishes of Whitsome, Chirnside, Eccles, Hutton, Dunse, Edrom,
Mordington, Fogo, Eyemouth, Bunkle, Nenthorn, Upsettlington (now Ladykirk), Longformacus, Ellem
Cranshaws, Abbey St. Bothans, Greenlaw, Polworth, Westruther, and Cocksburnpath
(minus Old Cambus) in the county of
Berwickshire; and the current parishes of Smailholm, Makerston, Kelso,
Stitchel, and Ednam in the county of Roxburghshire.
Lordship of
Langton, coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Berwickshire, was first granted to Robert de Ow by Henry, son of David I, Earl
of Huntingdon and Earl of Northumberland.
Lordship of
Upsettlington, coextensive with the current parish of Ladykirk in the
county of Berwickshire, was the first possession of the Bissets in Scotland,
granted to them by William the Lyon.
Lordship of
Gordon, coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Berwickshire, was granted to Richard de Gordon by David I in the mid-12th
century.
Schire of
Bunkle took in the now united parishes of Bunkle and Preston in the county
of Berwickshire.
Schire of
Berwick-upon-Tweed was not the same as the later county of Berwickshire but
included the land that later became the town and the district around it.
Royal Burgh
of Berwick-upon-Tweed was chartered by David I.
Priory of
Coldstream was a house of Cistercian nuns established by Gospatric III,
Earl of Lothian, in 1166 in the parish of that name in the county of
Berwickshire.
Priory of
Eccles was a house of Cistercian nuns established by Gospatric III, Earl of
Lothian, in 1156 in the parish of that name in the county of Berwickshire
EARLDOM OF LENNOX
Called Leamhnachd in Gaelic, with its name
deriving from Loch Leven (Levenachs)
and its people called the Lemnaig,
this province lay between Boquhan Burn in the east and River Leven on the west,
between Loch Lurnaig and River Forth on the north and River Kelvin on the
south.
It took in the parishes of Buchanan, Drymen, Balfron,
Killearn, Strathblane, Fintry, Kilsyth, and Campsie in the county of
Stirlingshire and the entire county of Dunbartonshire. Although many have claimed Lennox as an
ancient mormaerdom, the best information states that the earldom was created
for David mac Henry by his brother William the Lyon in 1174, and that he
resigned the title upon being invested as Earl of Huntingdon. Afterwards, it was granted to Ailin I.
PRINCIPALITY OF CUMBRIA
The Kingdom of Cumbria began as Alt Clut during
the dark ages, becoming Ystrad Clud (Strathclyde or Srath Clud) after the
Northumbrian conquest of Galloway, then Cumbria after it regained lost
territory when Northumbria retreated after the conquest of England by the
Danes. The kingdom survived under its
native Cymric rulers until at least the mid-11th century, after which it may
have become an appanage of the Kingdom of Alba.
That was certainly the case by the early 12th century when David fitz
Malcolm, brother of the King of Alba, was inaugurated as “prince of the Cumbrians” in 1113.
There are strong indications that the resurgent
Cumbria spread down to include what became the counties of Cumberland and
Westmoreland in England. In 1092,
however, William Rufus of England reconquered the territory and erected the two named counties.
Barony of
Cumbernauld (Comar nan Allt in
Gaelic) covered the parish of Cumbernauld in the county of Dumbartonshire.
Lordship of
Lenzie (Leanaidh in Gaelic) covered
most of the parish of Kirkintilloch, originally named Lenzie, in the county of
Dumbartonshire.
Barony of
Kirkintilloch (Cathair Cheann Tulaich
in Gaelic) covered the town and an area about it in the parish of that name in
the county of Dumbartonshire.
Burgh of
Kirkintilloch (Cathair Cheann Tulaich
in Gaelic) was granted a charter by William the Lyon.
Lordship of
Strathgryfe (Srath Ghriobhaidh in
Gaelic) lay between River Black Cart on the east and River Clyde on the west in
the northwestern corner of Scotland below the Firths, centering on the valley
of the River Gryfe. Four of its parishes
were prefixed “Kil-”: Kilmalcolm, Kilpeter, Kilallan, and Kilbarchan,
signifying missionaries from Ireland or Iona.
In the Early Middle Ages, the territory was attached to the county of
Lanarkshire until the 15th century, when it became the county of Renfrewshire.
Burgh of
Renfrew (Rinn Friu in Gaelic) was
chartered by Walter fitz Alan, High Steward of Scotland.
Abbey of
Paisley (Paislig in Gaelic) was a
Cluniac Benedictine house founded in 1169 that occupied the parish of Paisley
in the county of Renfrewshire,. It also
possessed the parish of Carmunnock in the county of Lanarkshire and the parish
of Kilpatrick in the county of Dumbartonshire.
Clydesdale
(Dail Chluaidh in Gaelic) was the
original name for what became the county of Lanarkshire.
Abden of
Glasgow (Glaschu in Gaelic), more
or less coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire,
was the land of the abbey founded by St. Mungo, aka St. Kentigern, in 580,
which also served as the chief or only bishopric of the Brythonic kingdom of
Alt Clut/Ystad Clud/Cumbria.
See of
Glasgow (Glaschu in Gaelic) was
revived in 1116 by David fitz Malcolm, Prince of the Cumbrians, and went on to
become the second-ranking diocese in Scotland after the prime See of St.
Andrews. In 1491, the see was granted
metropolitan status and became an archdiocese.
The Diocese of Glasgow covered Nithsdale, Annadale, the Galloway
district of Desnes Ioan, eight parishes of Eskdale, Kyle, Cunninghame, Carrick,
Lennox, Strahgryfe, Clydesdale (or Lanark), Tweeddale, and Teviotdale. The Cathedral of St. Mungo dates from the
late 12th century.
Burgh of
Glasgow (Glaschu in Gaelic) was
chartered by the Bishop of Glasgow in the 12th century.
Abden of
Govan (Baile a’ Ghobhainn in
Gaelic) was the land of the abbey of St. Constantine, former king of Cornwall
and missionary of St. David’s in Wales, founded in 565. This was roughly coterminous with the parish
of Govan. Upon the consecration of the
Cathedral of Glasgow in 1136, David I gave the lands of Govan to the see.
Lordship of
Drumpellier, comprehending the later parishes of Old and New Monkland in
the county of Lanarkshire, became known as Monkland in the 13th century as a
wholly-owned possession of the Abbey of Newbottle, but in the 12th century was
under traditional rulers.
Rutherglen,
coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire, was
owned by the Abbey of Paisley.
Royal Burgh
of Rutherglen was chartered in 1126 by David I.
Carmunnock
(Cathair Mhanach in Gaelic),
coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire, was a
possession of the Abbey of Paisley.
Barony of
Drumsagard was coextensive with the parish of Cambuslang in the county of
Lanarkshire.
Barony of
Blantyre (Blantaidhr in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Renfrewshire.
Lordship of
Bothwell comprehended the parishes of Bothwell and Schotts in the county of
Lanarkshire. The Douglas territories of
Dolphintoun, Walstoun, and Cambuslang came to be attached to it in later
centuries.
Schire of
Cadyow was coextensive with the parish of Hamilton in the county of
Lanrakshire; the name changed to that of its owning family in the 15th
century. The medieval parish of the name
also took in the schire of Mahan, to which the latter was a chapelry.
Lordship of
Dalzell (Dail Gheal in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Lanarkshire.
Barony of East
Kilbride (Cill Bhrighde an Ear in
Gaelic), granted to Roger de Valoins by William the Lyon, was coextensive with
the original parish of Kilbride in the county of Lanarkshire, which did not
then include the territory of the former parish Torrance, and the parish of
Glasford.
Lordship of
Torrance (Torrain in Gaelic) was
coextensive with the former parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire
that is now part of Kilbride.
Barony of
Stonehouse (Taigh Cloiche in
Gaelic), coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire,
was granted by David I to William son of Theobald the Fleming.
Barony of Glasford
was coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire.
Schire of
Machan was coextensive with the current parish of Dalserf in the county of
Lanarkshire, which changed its name from Machanshire in the 15th century. To the Church, it originally was a chapelry
of the parish church of Cadyow, the later Hamilton
Barony of
Mauldslie was more or less coextensive with the parish of Carluke in the
county of Lanarkshire. According to
local legend, there was at one time a Celtic abbey here.
Royal Burgh
of Lanark (Lannraig in Gaelic)
was chartered by David I in 1140.
Carstairs
(Caisteal Tarrais in Gaelic),
coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire, belonged
to the See of Glasgow.
Barony of
Carnwath (Cathair Nuadh in
Gaelic), coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire,
was granted to William de Somerville by David I.
Barony of
Cambusnethan (Camas Nechtain in
Gaelic), granted to William Finnemund by David I in the 12th century, was
coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire. In his will, Finnemund bequeathed his
personal lands to the Abbey of Kelso.
Lordship of
Dunsyre, coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Lanarkshire, remained under its native lords in the 12th century.
Lordship of
Avondale (Srath Abhainn in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the parish of Avondale in the county of
Lanarkshire.
Abden of
Lesmahagow (Lios Mo Chuda in
Gaelic) was coextensive with parish of that name. These were the lands of the abbey of St.
Machute. The Tironensian Abbey of Kelso,
owned the district under a grant from David I, erected the Priory of St. Mary
and St. Machute here in 1144.
Barony of
Biggar, coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Lanarkshire, was granted to Baldwin the Fleming by David I.
Lordship of
Dolphinton, coextensive with the parish of that name in the country of
Lanarkshire, remained under its native lords throughout the 12th century.
Barony of
Culter (Cultair in Gaelic), also
spelled Coulter, was coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Lanarkshire.
Barony of Wandel,
also called Hartside, took up the
parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire which is now united with the
parish of Lamington.
Barony of
Lamington took up the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire
which is now united with the parish of Wandel.
Barony of
Syminton, also called Symonstoun,
covered the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire.
Barony of
Pettinain was first granted to the father or grandfather of Hugh de
Pettinain, a Knight Templar and progenitor of Clan Huston to whom Malcolm IV
granted the lands of Kilpeter in Strathgryfe, later the Barony of Renfrew. Kilpeter later became known as Huston.
Barony of
Colvington, also called Colbanstoun,
covered the former parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire, now united
with the parish of Thankerton.
Barony of
Tancardstoun, later called Thankerton,
covered the former parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire, now united
with the parish of Colvington, and was granted to Tankard the Fleming byDavid I.
Barony of
Walston covered the parish of that name in the county of Lanarkshire.
Lordship of
Douglasdale (Srath Dubhglais in
Gaelic), occupied the parishes of Douglas and Carmichael in the county of
Lanarkshire, was granted to Theobald the Fleming by David I.
Lordship of
Crawford took in the parishes of Crawford (aka Crawford-Lindsey) and
Crawfordjohn in the county of Lanarkshire.
Lordship of
Dolphinton was coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Lanarkshire.
Lordship of
Cunninghame (Coineagan in Gaelic),
first granted to Hugh de Morville, High Constable of Scotland, in 1138, is
separated from Strathgryfe on the north by Kelly Burn and Kyle to the south by
Irvine Water. It later became the
northern third of the county of Ayrshire.
In the late 13th century, it was attached to the Lordship of Galloway.
Abbey of
Kilwinning (Cill D’Fhinnein
in Gaelic) was a Tironensian house established in the late 12th century
by Richard de Morville, High Constanble of Scotland and Lord of Cunninghame.
Lordship of
Kyle (Cuil in Gaelic) lies
between Irvine Water in the north, separating it from Cunninghame and River
Doon in the south, separating it from Carrick.
The district was subdivided early on into the barony of Kyle Stewart,
possession of Walter Fitz-Alan, High Steward of Scotland, and the stewartry of
King’s Kyle, retained by the crown; the two were separated by River Ayr. It later became the middle third of the
county of Ayrshire.
Burgh of
Prestwick was chartered by Walter fitz Alan in the 12th century in Kyle
Stewart.
Priory of
Mauchline (Machlainn in Gaelic) was
a daughter house of the Abbey of Melrose founded 1165 in Kyle Stewart.
Royal Burgh
of Ayr (Inbhir Air in Gaelic) was
chartered by William the Lyon in King’s Kyle in 1205.
Lordship of
Tweeddale (Srath Tuaidh in
Gaelic) was coextensive with the county of Peebleshire, the upper valley of
River Tweed, and also included the parish of Mertoun in the later county of
Berwickshire.
Royal Burgh
of Peebles (Na Puballan in
Gaelic) was chartered by William the Lyon.
Lordship of
Ettrick Forest was and colloquoially still is the name for what became the
county of Selkirkshire, once home to rebel bands led by William Wallace, Andrew
Petty, and Simon Fraser but otherwise unsettled until well into modern
times. Used for hunting and refuge, it
later became a crown demesne.
Abbey of
Selkirk (Sailkirc in Gaelic) existed
briefly in the later parish of Selkirk within Ettrick Forest from 1113, when it
was granted to the Tironensian Order by David, then Prince of the Cumbrians,
until 1128, when David I of the Brets and Scots moved it to Kelso.
Lordship of
Lauderdale (Srath Labhdair in
Gaelic) took in four or five parishes in what is now the western section of the
county of Berwickshire through which flow River Lauder. It was erected by David I for Hugh de
Morville, High Constable of Scotland, in 1138.
Burgh of Lauder
(Labhdar in Gaelic) was chartered by
Hugh de Morvile, Lord of Lauderdale, in the 12th century.
Abbey of
Dryburgh, founded in 1150 for the Premonstratensian Canons Regular, took in
most or all of the parish of Mertoun in the county of Berwickshire.
Abden of
Old Melrose (Mail Rois in Gaelic)
were the lands of the abbey of Old Melrose founded by St. Aidan of Lindisfarne
three miles east of the later and better known Melrose Abbey. The abbey itself was in a bend of River Tweed
cutting into Bemersyde Hill.
Abbey of
Melrose (Mail Rois in Gaelic) was
the site the monks of Old Melrose suggested when David I chose the area as the
site of the mother house for the Cistercian Order, known as New Melrose, three
miles east and upriver. The abbey lands
spread across the parish of Melrose in the county of Roxburghshire.
Abbey of
Kelso (Cealsaidh in Gaelic),
occupying the later parish of that name in the county of Roxburghshire, was the
place to which David I, king of the Brets and Scots, relocated the Tironensian
monks from the Abbey of Selkirk in 1128.
After 1144, the abbey also possessed the parish of Lesmahagow in the
county of Lanarkshire.
Royal Burgh
of Roxburgh (Rosbrog in Gaelic) was
chartered by David I in 1124, and served as his first royal capital.
Schire of
Yetholm was coextensive with the parish of that name in the county of
Roxburghsire.
Abbey of
Jedburgh (Deadard in
Gaelic), occupying the parish of that name in the county of
Roxburghshire, was granted by David, prince of the Cumbrians, to the Augustine
Order of Canons Regular in 1118.
Royal Burgh
of Jedburgh (Deadard in
Gaelic) was charted by David I in 1138.
Lordship of
Teviotdale (Gleann Tibhiot in Gaelic)
covered most of the county of Roxburgshire, all that was not part of the
earldom of Dunbar, the Abbey of Melrose, the Abbey of Kelso, the Abbey of
Jedburgh, the lordship of Lauderdale, the Schire of Yetholm, or the Royal Burgh
of Roxburgh, being the valley of River Teviot.
Lordship of
Liddesdale (Lideasdal in Gaelic) encompassed
the parish of Castletown in the county of Roxburghshire and the eastern section
of the parish of Canonbie in the county of Dumfriesshire, being the valley of
Liddel Water. It was first given to
Robert de Soulis in the 12th century.
Lordship of
Wauchopedale lay in the basin of Wauchope Water and parish of Wauchope in
the county of Dumfriesshire, later annexed to the parish of Langholm as its
western section. It was the first
possession of the Lindseys in Scotland.
Lordship of
Eskdale (Eisgeadal in
Gaelic) lay in the basin of River Esk, comprehending the parishes of Eskdalemuir,
Westerkirk, Langholm, and western Canonbie in the county of Dumfriesshire.
Priory of
Canonbie was a daughter house of the Abbey of Jedburgh founded in the
mid-12th century on a grant from Turgis de Rosedale, Lord of Liddell in
Cumberland (near Carwinley). The
location was in the Debatable Lands.
Lordship of
Ewesdale (Uisgedal in Gaelic) lay
in the basin of upper River Esk, taking up the parish of Ewes in the county of
Dumfriesshire.
Lordship of
Annandale (Srath Annan in Gaelic)
lay in the basin of River Annan, comprehending the parishes of Moffat,
Kirkmichael-Juxta, Wamphray, Kirkmichael, Johnstone, Applegarth and Sibbaldie,
Hutton and Corrie, Lochmaben, Dryfesdale, Tundergarth, Mouswald, Dalton, St.
Munro, Hoddam, Middlebie, Ruthwell, Cummertrees, Brydekirk, Annan, Cornock, and
Gretna in the county of Dumfriesshire.
Lordship of
Nithsdale (Srath Nit in Gaelic)
lay in the basin of River Nith, comprehending the parishes of Kirkconnell, Sanquhar, Penpont, Durrisdeer,
Tynron, Morton, Glencairn, Keir, Closeburn, Dunscore, Holywood, Kirkmahoe,
Tinwald, Dumfries, Torthorwald, and Carvaerlock in the county of Dumfriesshire.
Royal Burgh
of Dumfries (Dun Phris in Gaelic)
began as a local burgh and was raised to a royal burgh by William the Lyon in
1186.
Priory of
Lincluden was a house of Benedictine nuns established by Uchtred, Lord of
Galloway, just north of the burgh of Dumfries.
Abden of
Hoddom was the site of a Northumbrian abbey, whose grounds probably covered
the medieval parish of Hoddom in the county of Dumfriesshire. The current parish of that name includes the
medieval parishes of Luce and Ecclefachan.
Southern Cumbria
lay south of Solway and north of River Eamont in the former territory of the long
extinct kingdom of Rheged. It formed
part of the kingdom of Strathclyde, afterwards called the kingdom of Cumbria
(referring to the whole), from 927. In
1092, William Rufus conquered the territory south of the Solway, expelling
Dolphin, its local lord (brother of Gospatric, second Earl of Lothian), and establishing the Earldom of Carlisle,
granting it to Ranulf le Meschin, later 3rd Earl of Chester. David I of the Brets and Scots regained southern
Cumbria in 1135. Henry II of England recovered
it once and for all in 1157, splitting it into the counties of Cumberland and
Westmoreland.
LORDSHIP OF GALLOWAY
Called Gallgaidhealalaidh
in Gaelic, the first appearance of this territory in the historical record is
from 973, in the notice of the meeting of six kings and kinglets with Edgar the
Peaceful at Chester (probably the same occasion at which he granted the fief of
Lothian to the Scottish crown). One of
the attendees was “John of Galwegia”.
Figures mentioned as kings of the Gallgaidheal in the 10th and 11th
centuries have no relation to this realm of Galloway, which may not have
existed before the 12th century. Rather
than actually being a realm of “Foreign Gaels” or “Norse Gaels”, the word
Gallgaidheal applied here was probably an attempt to pronounce the region’s name.
The first clear ruler is Fergus of Galloway who
was its Lord in the early years of the 12th century (beginning c. 1110). His descendents ruled until 1234, after which
the territory fell to John Balliol, married to Devorgilla ni Alan, daughter of
the last independent Lord of Galloway.
Throughout the 11th century, the Kingdom of the
Rhinns, taking in the districts below of The Rhinns and Farines (more or less
the same as the county of Wigtonshire), was one of the possessions of the Ui
Imhair who ruled the Isle of Mann and the Isles, not incorporated into one
kingdom but as a separate entity. The
end of that kingdom coincided with the end of the main line of the Ui Imhair
and the rise of the Crovan dynasty.
Desnes Ioan
was the district between Nithdale and
Urr Water. Its northern portion was a
sub-district called Cro, or Desnes Cro.
Glenkens
(Gleann Cain in Gaelic) was
the Uplands district between Urr Water and Ken Water to its confluence with
River Dee, taking in the later parishes of Carsphairn, Dalry, Kells, Parton,
and Balmaclellan of the county of Kirkcudbirghtshire.
Priory of
St. Mary’s Isle was established on the peninsula of that name at the head
of Kirkcudbright Bay as a daughter house of the Abbey of Holyrood in the late 12th
century.
Abbey of
Dundrennan (Dun Droighnean in Gaelic)
was a Cistercian house founded in 1142 by Fergus of Galloway and David I of
Scots with monks from the Abbey of Rielvaux in France.
Desnes Mor
was the district between Ken Water to its confluence with River Dee, then River
Dee, on the east to River Cree on the west.
Farines
(Machair Ghallghaidhealaibh in Gaelic) was the district between
River Cree on the east and Water of Luce on the west, representing the eastern
bulk of the county of Wigtonshire.
Abden of
Whithorn (Rosnat in Galwegian, Taigh
Mhartainn in Gaelic) was
the site in southern Farines of the abbey founded by St. Ninian in the late 4th
century that later became a Northumbrian see that was extinct by mid-9th
century.
See of
Whithorn (Rosnat in Galwegian, Taigh
Mhartainn in Gaelic) represented
the revival by Fergus of Galloway of the Diocese of Galloway in the 12th
century, also known as the Diocese of Whithorn and the Diocese of Candida Casa. The Cathedal of St. Martin had its own
chapter of Augustinian Canons Regular.
The diocese was suffragan to the Archdiocese of York until 1472. The Diocese of Galloway covered Galloway.
Abbey of
Glenluce (Gleann Lus in Gaelic) was
a daughter Cistercian house of the Abbey of Dundrennan established in 1190 by
Lochlann, Lord of Galloway.
Abbey of Soulseat
(Sabhal in Gaelic) was a house of
Premonstratensian monks founded by St. Malachy, Archbishop of Armagh, in 1148.
The Rhinns
(Na Rannaibh in Gaelic) included the
land from the Water of Luce west to include the peninsula known as the Rhinns
of Galloway, the western end of the county of Wigtonshire.
EARLDOM OF CARRICK
Called Carraig
in Gaelic, the earldom was carved out of the Lordship of Galloway by William
the Lyon in 1186 for Duncan mac Gilbright, cousin of Lochlann mac Uchtred, Lord
of Galloway. It lay between River Doon
in the north and Galloway Burn in the south, taking in the parishes of
Ballantrae, Barr, Colmonell, Dailly, Girvan, Kirkmichael, Kirkoswald, Maybole,
and Straiten in the county of Ayrshire.
The Earldom eventually passed through his granddaughter, Marjorie ni
Gilbert, Countess of Carrick, to her son, Robert de Brus VII, later to become
Robert I of Scots.
5 comments:
Thanks very much for this. I have been trying to find Halbertshire and or confirm that it was later known as Herbertshire and here it is. It would be lovely if you had the source handy. My gggggg grandfather supposedly was son Macfarlane/Mcfarlane of Halbertshire. b 1645. They didn't move much for nearly 200 years - then emigrated to Canada etc.
You're very welcome, Cate. A lot of these places were new discoveries to me, Halbertshire being one of those.
Chuck, did I miss it or did you leave Glencoe out?
Regan
It's under the Lordship of Lorn.
This wass lovely to read
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